Ant of the Antarctic

My Last Month in Antarctica - i'd better get packing!

2008-02-17T10:35:00.001-08:00

Amongst all the events of my last few days, we had an unexpected summer visit, by the German leased Polar 5 Basler, making a refueling stop, on their way back from a Medi Vac from Punta to Neumeyer - the German Antarctic Station, and a chance for me to take some pictures like a true plane spotter.

The Polar 5 Basler in the background with BAS's twin Otter.

As part of your wintering tour, BAS provide both a beginning and end of season Dental check, which is always a good excuse to get another trip off base and to visit Ernest.

Me transferring happy Dental patients back to base, via a Skidoo and happy sledge on the sea ice, to a waiting Snowcat on the ice shelf.

From sea ice to ice shelf, thanks to the well dozed ramp - hold on!!

The biggest impact for the 07/08 summer season here at Halley, is the Morrisson construction site for the new Halley 6, £44 million project. A project that partly involves analysing areas of the Brunt Ice shelf, depicting how fast or slow the old base is being pushed out to sea, as well as the construction 0f a state of the art new base, for the residents of the British Antarctic Survey.

The, specially adapted tracked Mantis crane and Genie Cherry Pickers, hard at work fitting the cladding (GRP - Glass Re-enforced Plastic) onto the steel framework, for 1 out of the 7 modules.

The cladded nose cone of the module, being lifted into place by the Mantis, on the left.

The construction site complete with container workshops, and Morrisson's workers. Stitching the specially made tents, over the remaining modules, to keep them protected over the winter months in readiness for next years cladding.

Stitched and winterised, with the help of the JCB Telehandler, digging in the valance around the tents to stop the wind catching them.

Views from the Laws platform before, December 07.

After, February 08.

The first sunset of the year on 14th February 08, at about 23.08, saw another start to the cycle of Antarctic seasons, as winter begins to slowly creep in again, as the sun slowly gets faded out.

Any excuse for a party, and the Summer Skidoo tent appeared the most favourable venue, with a Folk night, an open mike and various acts from many talented (ish) people.

And, as if planned by purpose with hangovers in mind, a sponsored ski, run, walk or crawl around the 5km perimeter, was organised for the following day. A 12 hour window in which as many people on base as possible, clock up laps to try and reach the equivalent distance from Halley to the South Pole, all 1602 km of it for the Royal National Lifeboat Institute.

Halley at Sunset, on my way around the perimeter, adding to the total of 214 laps reached, 1070km trekked, from about 60 participants, and an ever increasing amount of £3700 raised - Job well done.

A Sun Pillar, streaming out from the setting Sun's rays.

An eerie mist rolling in from the February weather, with the Piggott building silhouetted in the foreground.

A 22 degree Solar Halo, with Sun dogs & a Perihelia circle, phenomenons caused by ice crystals in the atmosphere.

With it being my last month here in Antarctica, the weather was throwing all sorts at us, from dingle days to Halo's, and of course the unforgettable howling blows of the crisp Antarctic winds. With such severe weather relentlessly pounding the base, the extra summer accommodation outside the Drewery was temporarily shut, due to safety reasons with exit doors being snowed in.

The summer accommodation with the Drewery in the background, amidst another blow at Halley.

Just another day at Halley, digging for water, whatever the weather.

With my time here at Halley, very nearly to an end, there were two last jobs which i wanted to do - See the Piggott tunnels and all the amazing ice crystals, but also take a GPS reading to measure how far the ice, which is holding Halley in prison, has moved since my arrival on 1st Jan 07. The measurements from the Simpson building, show that our GPS position has changed, and moved 489 metres over the course of the year, averaging 1-2 metres per day.

The Piggott is its own self sufficient building, a backup in case the Laws has problems. The tunnels which lie 32 metres below the ice, hold a fuel flubber which contains 20,000 litres of Avtur fuel for the base, but more impressively, the most amazing winter, wonderland ice crystals, which live and grow down here. The tunnels temperature averages minus 17 degrees C, even at minus 40 degrees on the surface. Incidentally, the Laws tunnels have far less impressive crystals due to the Laws tunnels being warmer, averaging just minus 13 degrees C.

The entrance to the Piggott tunnels.

The ladder inside the shaft leading to the tunnels.

Probing the 20,000 litre flubber filled with Avtur, to check how full it is.

The crystals halfway along the tunnel, getting bigger and bigger, towards the colder part of the tunnel.

The frozen ladder on the other end of the Piggott tunnel.

Encrusted power box.

The new and the old winterers with the Summer support staff, outside the Laws, February 08.

27th February 2008.

Well, this is my last night on station, from here a couple of flights courtesy of the Basler, before boarding the Ilyushin to Cape Town, South Africa.

After staying up all night sorting and packing, packing and sorting all my stuff to be returned home, along with myself catching the early morning flight out of Halley, i had my last solitary glance from my kitchen window, staring into the 24hr daylight landscape, at about 03.05am.

If Carlsberg made kitchen view windows, this would probably be the best view from a kitchen window, in the world.

With temperatures turning from summer into winter, its all too apparent, what havoc Jack Frost plays in leaving Halley this late in the summer season, either by plane or ship. If the airs too cold on the ground the planes wings freeze, even before take off, and if the sea ice freezes over quickly, the entrapment of the ship heading North, cutting off all broken exit chanels, becomes ever more pressing and urgent. After a tentative start, and the aledged summer temperatures dropping to -25C, the pilot and crew annonunced on the radio more meths required, along with assistants in scrubbing the meths into the frozen wings. I didnt realise, until the pilot came back from the frozen Basler, watching the temperatures on the TV screen fluctuate, that, another 5 or so degrees and we'd be grounded for another day, as the Basler particulary dislikes -30C temperatures.

Lidia, which was the name of our Basler, being loaded with a mix of summer and winter crew out of Halley, for their onward flight to Sanae, Novo and finally Cape Town.

Touchdown at Sanae, the South African station, for the all important refueling stop.

welcome to Sanae, built onto a nunatak, (rocky outcrop), rather than ice like halley.

Touchdown at Novo, and the blue ice runway at the Russian station, where we finally meet the Ilyushin, which will take us to Cape Town.

Our taxi to the Ilyushin, our final plane flight out of Antarctica to Cape Town.

Ilyushin IL76 (link) , a Soviet era cargo and passenger transporter, with no windows, two strapped portaloos at the rear, and an added bonus of rough field work and landing capabilities.

SSSsssshhhhhh there sleeping? Arent they??????

3 Continents, 3 Islands, thousands of miles travelled and approximatly 460 days have passed since i last stood and walked across tarmac. I'd made it, my Antarctic experience was coming to an end. No more waddling out onto the ice like a bear, accompanied by my own shaddowy noise of crisp, crunchy ice under my cosy Mukluk boots.

Cape Town International Airport, and a whopping 48 degree temperature difference in just 12 hours from leaving Antarctica - let the sweat begin, the layers peel off and only 10 days till the big reunion with Sarah, my devoted girlfriend whose supported me through my entire experience.

Me and Sarah finally reunited in Cape Town, after 470 days of being apart. What a girl!

Joining in with the natives, with chickens on our heads.

February 08 Statistics:

Max. Temp. -2.85 Degs C on 20th
Min. Temp. -24.25 Degs C on 14th
Max. Wind Speed. 50.39 knots / 10 Min average 43.81

Manhauling & Climbing with Orcas

2008-01-27T15:18:00.000-08:00

15th January 2008

With relief well and truly behind us and the usual living and working, ticking along on base life, the odd trip out accompanying Richard, the new wintering Field GA, with some science equipment updates is always welcome. In this instance a solar powered, battery operated GPS system, which is continually monitoring which direction and how far the Brunt Ice Shelf is moving. There are 6 GPS devices scattered around key points of the Brunt Ice Shelf, being studied by Ryan Anderson (Life Time of Halley Science), to determine and possibly predict whether the ice shelf is moving as one or if some parts of the ice shelf are moving quicker or slower than other parts. All towards, being carved off and floating away as a huge iceberg, hense, why a new base needs to be built and moved further up onto the shelf.

The GPS site, based 10km South of Halley, which has already moved approximately 33 metres from 15th Jan - 19th Feb 08.

Richard making some adjustments and improvements, whilst getting instructed by Ryan, via radio.

Saturday 19th Jan 08, at a little past 9pm, myself, Richard (Doc) and Richard (new wintering field GA for 2008), took our first manhauling steps on skis to creek 4, 12km away from base. We'd been practicing and tweaking different rope traces, and who goes where on the system prior to our trip, by pulling the Nordic trail groomer, around the 5km perimeter of Halley. Which we all new would be harder, as it digs in groves behind it for skiers to glide in.

I'm sure i'm working harder than those two.

With our manhauling Nansensledge, tightly cramed, but very systematically packed with all the essentials for our trip - sleeping bags, tents, radios, spare warm clothing, food, cooking stoves and pots boxes and of course all the ice climbing and abseiling equipment for the following day. It was finally time, to experience a litle of what it must have been like all those years ago, when Shackleton and Admunsden manhauled to the South Pole.

Richard (field GA), skiing ahead and capturing the sillouettes of myself and Doc, on the vast flat plaines towards Creek 4.

Are we there yet??? Me manhauling with Doc.

And this time with Richard (FGA).

After 3 hours of leisurely manhauling, with a few chocolate nuggets and water stops enroute, we finally arrived just after midnight, at the caboose at creek 4, with fantastic vistas of the ice cliffs ahead of us. With plans of an early start for ice climbing and abseiling, sleep was on everyones list, eventually after the adrenaline and excitement relaxed out of our bodies.

Me preparing to abseil down the 30 metre ice cliff, with a possible Scottish grade rating of 3, (9 being hardest), while Richard checks my harness and rope work.

As always what comes down must go up!! Richard giving me the all clear to start the impressive ice climb, although this part rated a possible grade 6!

As if our manhauling trip, dingle weather, ice climbing and abseiling down the cliffs couldnt have been more perfect, a pod of Orcas swan up and down the stretch of sea ice along the cliffs, spouting air continuously, for the entire day we were there.

As the weather was so good it was also a good opportunity, for others to get off base, and so a nice walk back along the cliffs to our caboose at midday, saw 4 other eager climbers ready to throw themselves off the cliff - i mean abseiling, ofcourse! And off we went roped up as an Alpine 7.

Me (far, top left) and Doc, abseiling down the cliffs, with spectators already at the bottom - they look very small from up here.

Views of the sea ice and cliffs on top of Creek 4, with an Orca skimming the surface in the middle of the photo.

Its never a dull moment at Halley, especially half an hour before lunch, with the fire alarms going on full blast and the Laws platform looses all power. A full muster and Fire Emergency procedure are followed, including me "Donning" the Draeger Fire Fighting Equipment, in readiness for any insytructions given to me by the Fire Co ordinator.

Please excuse the scruffy right boot, i was in a bit of a rush and it was dark!

With an afternoon out of the kitchen and glorious weather outside, a short ski with some of my wintering buddies to the 4km marker, was a perfect excuse to get out and about.

Left, Dave, Me, Doc, Deano.

Some Alto Cumulus clouds over Halley, on our way back to base.

Jan. 08 Statistics:

Max. Temp: + 2.89 Degs C on 15th
Min. Temp: -19.62 Degs C on 20th
Max. Wind Speed: Gust 32.92 knots / 10 Min Average 30.0 knots

Creek 4 Relief, Dec 07 / Jan 08

2008-01-13T12:55:00.001-08:00

December 2007 already. Ernest eventually arrived on 20th Dec. at 16.00, with a little help from Mark the Twin Otter pilot, guiding her in on a safe passage away from heavy ice, via aerial sea ice observations. But not before, grooming chunks of loose sea ice debris away in readiness for the Amderma's mooring.

Along with all the necessity supplies of relief, which aid in keeping the base running for another solitary year - fuel of every kind, equipment supplies from kettles to nuts and bolts, to machinery and sledges, comes the backbone of every base, the delivery of food.

Another successful "Tesco" delivery service. The Challenger pulling just some of the food required, to feed a base for a year.

Craning some of the "Freshies" which should last all of summer and part of winter, with the hope of some replenishment by the "Shack" at 2nd call - February sometime.

Me standing proud, in my empty food container, in preparation of relief.

It will fit in?

Every tinned and canned item, as well as any other dry food items we need on the laws, and that, which wont fit in the food container, all has to be opened, packaging removed for recycling and stored in our 2 dry store bays on the Laws.

Welcome to the beer / morale container, enough for the summer and winter?? Yes it is locked, yes the spirits are else where, and yes there is more beer locked away on the laws - just in case.

Christmas Eve, and empty Avtur fuel drums are being dug up and dragged back to the ship, for recycling and refilling, with the end of the Shackleton relief coming surprisingly to an end after 4 days of 24hr working, 1500 cubic metres of cargo and a cargo line as long as 250 metres, Christmas Day could be a well earned rest?

Me chilling out by a snowdrift, with the "Twotter", after cooking Christmas dinner. 25th Dec 07.

New Years Eve, Dec 07, and the tradition of the oldest and youngest members of base lowering the old weathered flag and raising the new pristine flag, was brought forward, from mid winter, to now. With Pete Wilmott (Senior Project Manager), lowering the flag on the tick of New Years Day.

Jim Morrisson, (wintering Chippy) raising the new flag, with Pete looking on.

With Christmas past us and the beginning of another New Year soon upon us, next on the agenda was the arrival of the Amderma, built in 1983, which moored up against the sea ice, on 26th Dec at 20.00. The 177 metre long, ice strengthened Russian cargo ship, has been hired by BAS to deliver the 11,000 cubic metres of Halley 6 rebuild cargo, which is dwarfed in its total, 31,185.6 cubic metres grain capacity. When you compare the Shackleton at 80 metres in length and a total cargo capacity of about 3000 cubic metres, its considerably smaller than the Amderma.

A Snowcat loaded with an empty German sledge, travelling down the ramp onto the 1km of sea ice towards the Amderma, its drivers door constantly opened, in case of breaking through the sea ice and a safety man called a drivers mate, following alongside by skidoo.

Me in the John Deer, with Lance the Plant Technician, grooming the sea ice, compacting it, making it easier, harder and more vehicle friendly to travel on, with the Amderma and Shackleton in the distance.

My Taxi - lance in the John Deer, waiting to pick me up from the 3-5 metre thick sea ice.

Cargo from the Amderma being pulled up the ramp, off of the sea ice and onto the ice shelf, carefully followed by its drivers mate.

It was business as usual in the kitchen, feeding a total of 93 hungry labours of both BAS and Morrisson staff, working towards the Halley 6 build. Impressively, within a week both BAS and Morrisson staff had unloaded all 11,000 cubic square metres of cargo, measuring a length of 3km along Halley's cargo line.

4th January 2008.

It would be fractionally sooner than anticipated, that the Amderma would leave the ice shelf, with Ernest nestling around Precious Bay in open water. In the early hours of the morning, with the mist rolling in by strong winds from the icy waters and both ships loosing site of each other from their 1km apart mooring sites, on the sea ice. Pack ice, flowing in with the tide and strong winds, put pressure on the Amderma's dead men (trios of 8ft planks of wood, dug 1 metre into the snow, then drilled into the ice a further 5ft, and attached to 6 mooring lines), all purposely broke from being wrenched in under pressure, all barr one, as the Amderma was being pushed with the tide and heavy pack ice. Her last mooring line eventually gave way, under stress from the pack ice, to free her and the crew on their way North. The Shackleton, with 4 mooring lines, safely removed 3 dead men, before the last dead man broke, from the slack of the other 3 being removed and the flowing pack ice. She manouvered safely around Precious Bay, awaiting the last few passengers to board from base.

5th January 2008. After a speedy relief, Ernest gets ready to leave for Cape Town, along with several summer staff and 5 out of the 18 fellow winterers.

Farewell winterers - Thomas, Alex, Chris, Tamsin, Kirsty, setting sail for Cape Town, some of which have spent 2 years at Halley.

Kirk, the summer Field Assistant, and also this years Halley 6 Project camera man, getting some unusual angles, of Ernest leaving the sea ice.

My last sighting of an Emperor, flicking the icy sea water from its body.

The beautiful ice cliffs of creek 4, what a place to have relief, wave Ernest off and admire the only real resident of Antarctica - The Emperors.

Dec. Statistics:

Max. Temp: + 0.7 Degs C on 23rd
Min. Temp: -15.6 Degs C on 5th
Max. Wind Speed: Gust 39.4 Knots / 34.1 Knots 10 Min. average
Hours of Sunshine: 227.5 hrs

2007 was the 4th snowiest year on record, it was the snowiest December ever and the 3rd snowiest month on record, based on the number of days it snowed. It snowed on 26 out of the 31 days.

The coldest temperature reached in 2007 was minus 47.5 Degs C on 4th June.
The warmest temperature reached in 2007 was plus 1.8 Degs C on 3rd Jan.
The windiest gust was 64.1 knots on 27th July.

Being reunited with Ernest & Co-piloting the Shackleton Mountains

2007-12-25T11:40:00.000-08:00

Its been all go here on base since the arrival of more and more flights, bringing an entourage of helpers on hand to aid relief, from all manner of technical service guys to RAF mast specialists to scientists to vehicle mechanics and field assistants to two other chefs aiding the 24hr food required to feed the ever increasing mouths on base. After careful scouring of the Brunt shelf, for a suitable relief site for both ships, with added requirements for suitable shelf height and sea ice thickness. The route to creek 4, which is 12Km North away from base to the edge of the ice shelf, has been groomed and flagged. With an epic day of ramp dozing from the shelf edge onto the sea ice, ensuring a safe entry and exit point for the cargo, from the sea ice onto the shelf. The bets are on, as to when the Shackleton will materialise along side the 3-5 metre thick sea ice.

It was an exciting time for me, travelling down on the back of a sledge being pulled by a Challenger to Creek 4, and being reunited with Ernest, which arrived on 20th Dec. at 4.00pm. Seeing her for the first time, since leaving me here 10 months ago - what a bizarre feeling, remembering her bright red paint work, the galley which i spent so much of my time in, the rooms, and also, taking advantage of having a shower with no limits and a sauna - what a luxury.

The cliffs at Creek 4 and my first sighting of Ernest.

The man made, dozed ramp, enabling access to and from the sea ice.

View of the ramp from the sea ice.

Snow Petrols flying above Creek 4.

Ernest moored up alongside the sea ice.

View of the sea ice and cliffs, taken from the Monkey Island on Ernest.

A small proportion of surface cargo, on board Ernest.

21st Dec, 07

One of the perks for the summer is the chance of co-piloting in the De Havilland dhc6 Twin Otter, VP-FBL, and it just so happened my chance was the very next day. A trip to the Shackleton Mountains at A80 and at A77, (A is the name and the number is the degrees south), where LPM's are buried (low powered Magnetometers), which measure the earths magnetic field, and help detect solar flairs that may knockout our satellites or potentially enter our atmosphere, causing disastrous harm to our Earth.
The reason for co-pilots, is because the pilots aren't allowed to fly on their own, just in case anything goes wrong, in the air or on the ground.

Richard and Chad (the air mech) refueling the Twin Otter with Avtur (205 litre drums of Aviation fuel, weighing 410lbs each), at Halley International Airport (skiway).

Inside the Twin Otter, with full fuel drums strapped in at the back, to be dropped off at A80, to replace the ones used in previous flights.

The first sightings of the Shackleton Mountains at (S 80* 53.270 / W 022* 15.590), were from the aircraft at 9000 ft, but when we landed on the ice, we were still at 3,860 ft above sea level, which is a good indication, as to the thickness of the ice there.

Shackleton Mountain ranges.

The Twin Otter coming into land, at A80.

Fuel drums at A80, with the Shackleton's in the background.

Mark Beasley, the Otter Pilot flying me over the Shackleton's.

The Shackleton's peaking out of an Antarctic dessert plateau.

Me co-piloting.

Coming into land at A77.

A refueling stop at A77, (S 77* 31.400 / W 023* 25.090), at 5200 ft above sea level, where there are more LPM's.

Me and Mark digging the Avtur fuel drums out of A77.

Loading the empties on board for recycling.

Part of the Hinge Zone, on the Brunt Ice Shelf, where ice glides off of the continent onto the shelf, creating a hinge that stretches wright across the Brunt Ice Shelf.

Part of the Rumples and coast.

Flying towards the creeks and Halley

The creeks clearly visible and the Ernest Shackleton moored up alongside the sea ice, at creek 4.

Ernest moored up and ready for another relief, with a Snowcat and sledges awaiting cargo.

Halley, just to the right of Ernest on the horizon.

Coming into land at Halley Research Station, after our 697 km round trip.

Chad, me and Mark, relieved with another successful flight and landing - pheewwwwwww!

Penguin Paparazzi & Farewell Sune

2007-11-22T00:54:00.000-08:00

My last and final trip to Windy, Emperor Penguin colony. I thought i'd put together a collection of photos, which will hopefully portray some of the characters of the colony, the cuteness of the fuzzy chicks and the devoted adults as both parents and companions towards one another.

The most expensive Taxi to the zoo, i have ever taken. The monster Caterpillar Challenger, with 325 bhp and costing a whopping £125,000, pulls away carrying a cargo of 2 German sledges, 8 passengers and a medley of survival gear. The first sledge is purely to catch all the blowing snow kicked up from the tracks, otherwise there would be 8 snow buried passengers.

A lone Emperor, snoozing amidst the dramatic blue ice cliffs of the Brunt ice shelf.

Tucked up cosy, for a morning nap.

Sunbathing in the mid morning sun, an Emperor adult and chick trying to cool down in minus 14 degs C, laying on the ice.

After a snooze, a flexible body enables any part to be scratched and ruffled, ready for the day ahead.

Synchronisation, adult and chick enjoying a vocal chorus..........

.............And a wavy flap.

The vast sea of adults and chicks.

A rare sighting, trying to capture the black eye of an Emperor on a black head.

A fond, final farewell, to the Emperor Penguin colony atop the cliffs.

Me being dwarfed by the Caterpillar Challenger, and a chance for me to work, each of the 16 gears on our way.

Summer mode is definitely underway, the garage and Drewery have both been moved from their wintering slumber, leaving a crater worthy of a large house's foundations. And now the Drewery is up and running with its first inhabitants of the year, our quiet, cosy wintering team has grown from a comfortable 18 to 31 people for now, but when the rest arrives, is anyones guess.

Me, Mat & Ben raising the 4km marker on 22nd Nov 07, out of its snow drift.

All too soon our wintering team of 18 is about to be sethered, as Sune the field GA, has a 2 and a half month "Camping Holiday" collecting rocks with a Beaker (a term derived from the Muppets character - Beaker, the scientists assistant). The rocks in particular are detrital zircons which occur as tiny crystals in rocks, and are robust enough to withstand erosion, sedimentation and remelting. The study of these crystals will hopefully aid us in answering the origins and evolution of Antarctica's continental mass and that of other land masses.

But, before Sune goes a last minute celebration of his 26th Birthday, on 25th Nov 07, with probably the last cake made by Dr. Richard and soaking up the last few nights in his Halley base pit room.

A disc of music and voices from his wintering team - just so he doesnt forget us, however annoying we were to him, hahaha.

An exciting day, Sune's off on his holiday, allegedly a working holiday, and more of the new winterers and summer staff are arriving by Basler, or Lidia as she's known.

Lance, refueling the Basler with 13, 45 gallon drums of aviation kerosene, which contains FS II, an additive used to stop the fuel freezing.

30th Nov. 07

Sune, sharing a last minute joke, before the Twin Otter takes him off to Troll station, a Norwegian Antarctic base, located in the Droning Maud land, where his expedition with his beaker will start.

Chad, the air Mech. taxying the Twin Otter carrying Sune, out towards the skiway.

Halley International Airport. Even in Antarctica you have to wait your turn to takeoff.

Farewell and good luck my wintering friend.

Nov. Statistics:

Min. Temp. -32 Degs on 1st
Max. Temp. -1.3 Degs on 27th
Max. Wind Speed. Gust 49.3 Knots /39.8 Knots, 10 Min average
Hours of Sunshine. 250.2hrs

Winter Trip 2nd Nov 07

2007-11-16T01:07:00.000-08:00

Friday 2nd Nov 07.

After the excitement of our new arrivals, seeing a plane, fresh fruit and vegetables, different conversation and the reality that our winter is so very nearly over, it was finally time for my last winter trip with Sune, Jules and Kirsty. Our destination (s) which are very weather dependant, would begin with N9, which was the first place i stood onto Antarctica's ice shelf after stepping off of the Ernest Shackleton, which docked there, before departing and leaving just 18 of us for the harsh antarctic winter, 9 months ago.

As with everything you do here preparation is paramount and consistent, increasing ten fold before, during and after your winter trip. Locations have to be agreed, Nansen sledges have to be lashed with all kinds of Antarctic survival gear - tents, fuel, primus stove, tilley lamp and spares, skidoo spares, tents, food boxes, radios, first aid box, personal gear - P bags, spare clothing, climbing gear and any other luxury that you can be bothered to shove into an already snug, compacted space that hasn't had the air squeezed out of it. Lets not forget either the several layers of clothing you wrestle into for the skidoo journey ahead, fighting heat exhaustion and sweat putting them on, in the comfort of a warm base, to the struggle and dis-pleasurement of bursting for the loo once you've finally walked outside and got a lung full of crisp Antarctic air.

One of 4 sledges which have to be lashed and unlashed for our trip.

Arriving at a frozen N9, S 75* 13.582' / W 025* 32.511', Sune probes for potential crevasses, to avoid us making camp on them.

After 2 hours of skidooing, what a nice camp site, set up in nearly 4 hours, skidoos and sledges tarped, pyramid tents erected and the infamous "Poo" tent on the far left.

The best window in the world, mine and Sune's view from our cosy pyramid tent, a sight which greeted us each morning for breakfast.

Looking bleary eyed, collecting a snow block for morning tea, from the pile outside our tent.

On the agenda for today a lovely walk in the fresh Antarctic air. So after ample cups of tea and bowls on sweetened porridge or biscuit browns with Marmite, (army style rations of high calorific biscuits in green foil packets, resembling that of brown bread but as a biscuit), i slowly crawled out of my body heated air of my down sleeping bag, quickly wrestled for warmer layers to wrap up in, in a space just big enough for you to lay and sit up in, before packing my rucksack with spare clothing and flasks of hot water and then stepping outside onto the ice and snow in minus 15 degs, fiddling with frozen metal parts of climbing gear to attach to my harness, before taking a 9 hour stroll as an Alpine Four around the N9 hills and slopes, hopefully finding some interesting ice climbing features and crevasses. And so, the day begins.

Our camp in the middle left of the photo.

Me, ice climbing to the summit of this blue ice slope.

Iridescence light reflecting around the sun.

On top of the ice shelf looking down towards the first sightings of the hypnotic sea, another exciting feature i haven't seen since the Shackleton left me here 9 months ago. We saw here some dark patches on the sea ice, which would suggest a hole in the ice, that wildlife maybe using - further investigation required.

After the excitement of our first day, the weather changed, the winds picked up and the contrast diminished, and so our first lay in, tea drinking, eating, reading and sleeping, in that order for the entirety of the day.

Sune radioing in sched. on the HF radio, with Halley base 9am and 9pm each morning.

The next morning the weather changed for the better and it always amazes me how sudden and severe the weather changes are. Where else on earth can such a place experience fluctuations in temperature from minus 29.4 degs to minus 1.7 degs in 36 hrs or even more incredibly a fluctuation from minus 29.4 @ 05.30 on 5th Nov - minus 16.5 @ 15.30 on 5th Nov, a change of 12.9 degs over 10 hours.

And so it was another slog of applying layers, 2 pairs of thermal bottoms, wool socks, wool cat suit, salapets, 2 thermal tops, 1 fleece top, 1 wool jacket, windy jacket, neckie, hat and 2 pairs of gloves worn together, then your harness laden with all manner of climbing gumpf, and if that isn't enough a rucksack with ice hammers and axes, ice anchors, climbing rope, spare clothing, food and flasks, laden like a donkey and tied up like a convoy of Yaks across the plains. Always the way, as soon as your set to go your bladder sends a message to your brain that it needs to be released, it never sends the message when your wearing next to nothing - typical. So off we went onto the frozen sea ice with ice drill in hand, just to check how thick the ice is we are treading on.

The cliffs and frozen ocean at N9.

First sighting of an Antarctic Skua this year, no doubt searching for cute, fluffy Emperor penguin chicks.

Penguin tracks leading out to sea.

After strolling out onto the sea ice, drilling as we go, making sure we didn't exceed our given ice thickness limits, which we were well within, with parts of the sea ice ranging from 25cm - 100cm plus.

We were so lucky to come across not one but two different breathing holes in the ice, with Emperors gathered around it like a fascinating amusement attraction. Would we be lucky enough to see wild Emperors jumping in and out of the water?..........................I think so!!

If the jump doesn't quite make it, the sturdy beak is always at hand along with the huge talon like claws.

After a quick dip at the seaside, i like to keep cool by basking in the midday sun, and letting the chilling air, freeze icicles on my beak.

Me, stepping onto virgin sea ice, using the Bog chisel to detect crevasses or weaknesses in the ice. What a picturesque winter wonderland, no place on earth have my eyes ever been so busy at gazing at Mother Natures sculptured landscapes.

A gentle, soft slide with a light dusting of powdered snow to land on.

Part of Sledge Kilo (minus Sune, taking the picture) posing by some pressure ridge ice.

On top of a snow drift, with a blue crack in the sea ice, bottom right.

View from the top of the snow drift, with a salt water pool (left) growing frost flowers on it.

Yet again, another day held up by the elements, blowing snow, winds, poor contrast poor and visability.

With average contrast and already a day and a half laying up in our tents, with the occassional visit from our other tent laid buddies, Sune decided a short excusion was in order - crevasse hunting, around an area we already browsed upon in good contrast with some potentials. Its amazing, this hole was completly covered by a thin sprinkling of snow, was about 2 metres deep and labarythed in both directions for a good 20 - 30 metres.

Inside the crevasse, the crack at the top is ground level barely visable and the crack at the bottom is the sea ice.

The beautiful gun metal skies over the N9 Brunt Ice Shelf.

With the prospect of moving camp the next day, it seemed as good a time as ever to have a snow bath, or more like a quick strip off, dance around like your treading on hot coals simultaneously throwing powdered snow on yourself.

The convoy, Sledge kilo on its way to Windy, N9 to Windy - 70 km - 3 and a half hours.

Making my contribution, melting snow on the reflex stove, for tea and dinner in the caboose at Windy.

Our new camp, at Windy.

Taking advantage of the good contrast but not so good wind, we roped up as an Alpine Four and walked North West around the ice shelf at windy, experiencing another vantage point of the Emperor Penguins and the majesty of the cliffs.

Blowing snow streaming off the shelf, onto the Emperors below, too windy to get down onto the sea ice and get closer to the Penguins.

Standing just a few feet away from the 20 metre high edge, with adjoining cliffs in the background.

Taking a detour around the cliffs at the North West Cape, looking at the leads through the sea ice.

A short rest stop on the way home, admiring the drifting snow and the vast expanse of endless Antarctic space, with absolutly no blemish distrupting the horizon.

1942 Basla DC3 - First Summer Arrivals

2007-11-01T09:14:00.000-07:00

1st November 07

Not since the 18th February have i seen and interacted with any other human being in person, apart from my 18 base members. How the excitement was brewing. As with any flights, delays are inevitable - will it takeoff today or wont it? will we see new people or wont we? will the weather be kind or wont it? All questions, which circled our minds, of the eagerly anticipated departure of the, 1942 Basla DC3, from Rothera to Halley, flight time 6hours, carrying a cargo of fresh faces, conversation, post and the all important ingredient for every chef - fresh produce. The base felt alive with the expectation of the planes cargo, and the inquisitiveness of meeting so many other people, in all these months. It was similar to the feeling i imagine dogs get when they are desperate to meet each other - wagging tails, salivating mouths and a good sniff u know where - well almost like that anyway.

Touchdown, the Basla lands on 1st Nov. 07 at 05.37 am, infront of most of the excited base winterers who could fall out of bed in time and catch the "Taxi" style Snowcat of passing Skidoo, to the skiway about 1.5km away.

1942 Basla DC3

Lance (left) and Matt (right), homing in on each other like a pair of lost and found carrier pigeons.

Its not everyday you get to greet a Basla fitted with skis, landing on an ice shelf.

Christmas comes early. Id never imagined the vast colours of "Fresh" fruit and vegetables would hypnotise me - so shinny and colourfull you almost dont want to eat them, except if your Richard, and u wana rub your rough, stubbly beard in a lettuce - i wont eat that one!

October melt, Chicks and Preparation of Visitors

2007-10-25T05:50:00.000-07:00

Caution, this edition does contain photos, of the harsh reality that the unforgiving Antarctic elements have upon their extroadinary residents - The Emperor Penguins.

October already, did i miss September? The hours, days and past few weeks have all merged into a pattern of "blink and you'll miss it", scenarios. The clock is ticking, and the race is on to get the base inorder, before our new guests and arrivals get here at the begginning of November - weather permitting. Base in order - well, the reality of releasing the grip on our winter slumber and the shock of relief, again. Its been eight and a half months since all 18 of us saw another human being, a period thats about to come to an end.

With the hussle and bustle of new summer jobs to do, one of the first was a shopping spree to the container line to retreive some brand new skidoos for Matt, the vehicle mechanic to assemble, service and get up and running for the summer crew.

The oncoming of November also bought new weather - "Dingle" days, perfect for Ozone hole observations, and Blimp flying.

The Blimp, tucked up, happily snug in its weather haven, in readiness for the call up to fly.

Alex, the data manager, helping me, get the Blimp out of its slumber, which is a feat in itself.

Dave and Kirsty, the Met Babes, strapping the Meteorological instruments to the blimp lines, to aid in ozone observations, wind speed and direction, temperature, moisture and pressure readings.

The ozone instrument on the left and the wind speed and direction, temperature, moisture and pressure instruments on the right.

Me, using the winch to release the blimp, which is filled with helium, to a height of about 200 metres.

Dave, blimp and the Meteorological instruments in flight.

Lowering the blimp back to bed.

With a push and a shove.

Along with the surprising good weather and "Warm" sunshine, came the melt, a sure sign summer is well on its way, with a temperature of minus 10 degs. Made even more real by the sightings of several Antarctic petrols flying over base, during the blimp flight a few days before.

As the summer fast approaches, many digging jobs are there for the taking, or like below, a chance for Dave to show off his heroic ness of conquering a small snow drift. With his heroic ness in vain and of no use to any "Fancy Free" young ladies walking by, (cos there weren't any) all his testosterone, was tested on digging out the tracks of the two Snowcats.

Me, giving Dave and Matt a helping hand.

Matt, switching on the Webasto in the Snowcat, which is a water heater that preheats the engine prior to turning the engine over.

Steam coming from the melting ice inside the engine hood.

The influx of good weather made no excuses for any outdoor labour to go astray. One of the major digging jobs, was digging out the power cable running from the Laws to the garage, which are attached to several 10 feet long beans, which have clearly become very buried.

A few days later, an empty drum raising session, for drums to be used, to mark the Skiway - the landing strip for the plane.

It wouldn't be too long into the day, that the frequenting weather would change rapidly in both visibility and temperature. Richard unloading the drums approx. every 50 yards along the Skiway, which then will be carefully positioned by a team behind us using a theodolite, so that the plane has a nice straight landing strip with no "dogleg" bends or kinks in it.

Me, digging the drums in a little, as so they freeze into the ice and don't blow away.

Richard and Pete putting the drums in, on the way to the Skiway.

There are many useful skills and abilities, that can be acquired whilst living down South amongst a small team, whom have been carefully selected, for their skills in their chosen profession. None more so than the talents of Matt, who took 3 keen apprentices into the garage for some Mig welding practice.

Me, enjoying the personal firework display i gave myself, and my fellow apprentices.

My first job, welding a nail to a pole, which will be used to mount the recently dug out power cable on.

The 3 Grease "welding" Monkeys, Richard, Dean and me. Although, 2 of them look like they are as happy as a bulldog chewing a wasp.

Due to the Halley 6 build over the next 3 years, much of the science work here will be packed up and sent back to BAS Cambridge. Part of which is the Microbarograph, a pressure sensor 8km away from base, on the Creek 2 drum line. These sensors aid in weather predictions by sensing new weather fronts coming in.

The solar powered weather sensor, which was surprisingly only buried by half a metre or so, is powered by a solar panel which charges the batteries which in turn takes a small amount of power to activate the sensor.

Dave, the met Babe checking his instrument, before packing it away for transport back to Halley, not before a brew, in the crater from the dig.

Probably the last opportunity to visit the cave, made a few years ago from past winterers, before its dug in.

Optimum flying conditions allowed Thomas, the UAV engineer, to perform some of his UAV (Unmanned Aerial Vehicle) flights, which is a first for UAV's in Antarctica, but an ideal place as there is hardly any unnatural influences for the potential data. Data, which is recorded on board, such as wind speed, temperature and moisture, accumulated over different altitudes and land and sea surfaces, all aids in climate change forecasting. The plane travels at approx 40 knots and is launched via a bungee, which is buried by a deadman - plank of wood, the UAV travels at an altitude averaging approx 150 - 300 metres and a distance of 1km away from Thomas.

On a normal Sunday morning with no plans for the day, i was surprised of the offer and the opportunity for another trip to the Penguins, to which i quickly scrambled my gear in readiness for the visit to the zoo.

This time, the Emperors had clearly enjoyed the luxury of feeding, from the state of the defecated ice we were walking on. They also seem to take comfort in being reunited with their partner and sharing the hardship of looking after their very demanding, well nursed chick.

A small creche of baby Emperor chicks, learning at a young age, that huddling together keeps you warm.

In just a few weeks the chicks have grown considerably, so much so they struggle to fit inside the sheltered, warm pouch of their parent. Forcing themselves in, any which way they can. Although these are the more fortunate ones, some parents almost die of starvation whilst looking after their demanding chick, having not fed for nearly 4 months themselves. If their partner hasn't come back in time from the ardeous trek from the sea, to take the other parents place of looking after the chick, the remaining adult faces the hertbreakig prospect of abandoming their offspring, inorder to make the same trek again to feed.

In amongst life, on the Antarctic ice shelf, there is also the inevitable death. Which co-exists along the circle of life of young and old together. The mound in the foreground of the photo is an unfortunate victim, of living in one of the harshes, coldest and windiest places on Earth.

Our mid winter base photo, which will be hanging up on the historic wall of fame within Halley 5, 6 and however many more Halley's there on in. In particular, in rememerance of the Halley 5 melt tank which will no longer be a part of the new Halley 6 building, only recognisable by the mound of snow and ice build up, which has served us all our entire water supply - Homage.

Talking of "homage", seeing as everybody else in their department has photos of themselves of their winter season - Simpson gang, Tech guys. We thought it only fair, to take a stand and take photos of ourselves and leave it here, whether anybody wants to look at it or not.

With the possibility of this being the last Saturday (27th) night, before any visitors and ofcourse Halloween, i decided my last meal for my 18 base members, id bring out the last remaining "Fresh" potatoes, which had lasted well since leaving the Falklands in Dec 06.

Sundried tomatoe & basil rolls
Grilled Cod in a light champagne veloute with a roasted red pepper coulis
Charred Barbary duck with a mango & cranberry sauce
Grilled asparagus with lemon hollandaise
Braised beef fillet steak (or Quorn) with Port mushrooms & caramelised onions
Last of the fresh potatoes, roasted
Lemon posset with pistachio brittle

Harry Potter with a very exagerated wand.

Me kiting, with the Simpson in the background.

Is that "air" between the floor and my feet?

The end of the month was beconning, along with the expected new arrivals, (whenever that maybe), which spurred me on even more to empty my food container, in readiness for the new food to be delivered for the forthcoming year. No mean feat, if you remember how full it was in the Summer last year, and sifting through the stock this time round found some quality gems, still perfectly ok but nethertheless dated "use by" 1999 - cineration for them then.

Craning the food onto the platform.

Oct Statistics:

Max. Temp. -3.8 Degs on 24th
Min. Temp. -36.6 Degs on 23rd
Max Average Wind Speed. 54.4knots on 8th
Max. Gust Speed 63.7 knots
Total Sunshine Hours 248.1

Skies, Stars & Storms

2007-10-11T08:59:00.000-07:00

The start of September bought the last shimmers of light during the night. It would be the finale of the Aurora Australis, and very soon the last sightings of Antarctica's night star constellations, as the daylight starts rapidly taking grasp over the darkness of night. As the nights are quickly drawing to an end, i find myself reminiscing about the luminous starry skies that glistened above us, during our siege of 24 hr darkness. Stars, satellites, planets, galaxies and auroras, all phenomenons visible, yet so far away.

Stars are made up from balls of gases, made incandescent by energy from nuclear reactions deep in their interiors. They come in many sizes and brightnesses, from faint dwarfs to super giants, ranging in temperatures of more than 20,000 degs C in blue-white stars to 3000 degs C in cool red stars. All stars are on an evolutionary pathway, growing and expanding, starting off as clouds of gas and dust, forming into dwarf stars, before entering a main sequence of stars (which our sun is one of them), and then many years later, joining the giants and super giants. Which after that, once they have swollen to their maximum size, outer layers drift off into space, dispersing the surrounding gasses, leaving the remains of the central star called white dwarfs. These white dwarfs have an immense density (a teaspoonful of white dwarf remains would have a mass of thousands of kilograms), ending their particular cycle, slowly cooling off until they fade into oblivion.

Stars appear in different brightnesses, some give out more light than others, and they all lie at vastly differing distances. So a small star that is quite close to us can appear brighter than a phenomenally powerful star that is further away. A stars brightness is measured by magnitude, from 1st magnitude - brightest stars, to 6th magnitude - the faintest. A stars distance is measured in light years - the distance a beam of light travels in one year. Light moves at the fastest known speed in the Universe, 299,792.5 km per second, and on average stars are several light years apart.

Aurora Australis taken on 2nd Sept at 02.10, with Jupiter glowing in the middle right of the photo. Notice how far Jupiter has moved in just 5 days, compared to the below photo.

The Scorpius constellation lies in a rich area of the Milky Way, and is surrounded by star clusters. M7, is a huge cluster of 80 plus stars with a 3rd magnitude rating, and lies 800 light years away.

A starry sky and Aurora Australis over the Laws, taken on the 7th Sept at 02.15.

(click to enlarge)

The Southern Cross (Crux), lies in a dense part of the Milky Way, with a dark nebula known as the Coalsack silhouetted against the starry background, and is estimated to be about 400 light years away.

The Centaurus constellation contains the closest star to the Sun, alpha, which is actually three stars linked by gravity, is 4.3 light years away and is the third brightest star in the sky. Centaurus, is one of the strongest radio sources in the sky, and is associated with the galaxy NGC 5128.

(click to enlarge)

An unfortunate death occurred on the 14th Sept, during a period of relentless strong winds and blowing snow - The death of the Blimp, which was rattled inside the weather haven like a dog with a new toy. On reflection of our loss, here on base a mourning period was shared, fond memories were gathered, and a "Wake" at the expense of the Blimp, was attended.

Inside the Blimp, being pitched by one of Jules's crutches decorated with fairy lights.

However, the mourning was short lived. As the following day celebrations were underway for another 30th B'day here at Halley, and a subsequent two more B'days shortly after. Starting off with a London Tube Station Party on Sat 15th for the, "Not so young anymore", Dr. R. Corbett.

Can u guess the tube stations? i.e. Mark on the far left, is Elephant & Castle station, Dean on the far right with a crook and a wig between his legs is............................?? Shepherds Bush station, and so on.

Another appearance, of an Antarctic ice bar, on the 18th Sept. made for Richards real 30th B'day celebrations, with a dodgy liquor bought from who knows where, along with handmade ice glasses that drew blood on your lips from the minus 35 Degs C temperatures, followed by real Uruguayan cigars.

The following weekend saw Neil the Caslab Chemist, celebrating his elusive possible 39th, 40th, or even 45th B'day, with a Toga & Gods party. Although, most looked as if they'd fallen out of bed and waddled into the lounge with their bed sheets stuck to them.

Richards B'day cake for Neil, with great poignancy towards remembering Neils leg kissing a fur seal - chomp, chomp.

The "Gods" playing pool.

Neil as Atlas.

The last of the Sept B'day celebrations, saw Jules, the electronic engineer, reaching his 29th B'day here in Antarctica, on 28th Sept. Which luckily for him, Halley, was being visited by some very special (or different) visitors, to join in the frolickings.

The new visitors making themselves at home, and preparing for the night ahead.

In amongst all the hype of Birthdays and longer daylight hours, a small window of reprieve from constant blows and poor weather, warranted a refueling session of the Laws.

Me and Andy, the Fixed Plant Technician, refueling one of two, of the 20,000 litre capacity Dunlop flubbers, which fuels the laws building. The far side of the flubbers wall receiving all the pressure from the crushing ice.

A rare day for September, but much appreciated. The winds died, the clouds diminished and a solar Halo with two Sundogs either side shone throughout the day. A phenomenon which only occurs in the Polar regions. But, it was too much to ask for more than a day of "Dingle" weather.

A few days later, a drum raising trip to Windy Caboose, to save the 205 litre empty black drums from being completely buried in the persistent blows, which aid us on our way to and from the Penguin colony there.

Me supervising Jim and Matt digging out a drum.

Familiarity, 30knot plus winds, again. The rope in the photo is tied to a six foot pole, at which the manhole style cover to the melt tank is fastened. Barely one foot visible. A digging session in itself, before we can even fill the melt tank. Although this month the wind officially peaked to 62.8 knots, registering a violent storm, bearing in mind a hurricane starts at 64 knots.

Sept. Statistics:

Max. Temp: -15.2 Degs C on the 27th
Min. Temp: -44.7 Degs C on the 7th
Max. Gust: 62.8 knots
21 days of snow
Total Sunshine Hours 116.5

The sun returns, with Emperors

2007-08-21T09:45:00.000-07:00

August already. How time flies. With the coming of the summer light, many of the yearly jobs can now be undertaken, jobs which have been caused by the relentless Antarctic winds, freezing temperatures and drifting snow, during the darkness of the winter months. In particular, the moving of the container line, out of their snug snow drifts. A line of 23 shipping containers, all storing supplies for base survival. Armed with a couple of Bulldozers, a 50 kilo towing chain, fitted with twist locks and some helpful (hardcore) volunteers, we were well equipped for some "brute force" shifting of the containers.

At last, the beginning of August enabled you to run outside without a head torch, and seeing the sustrugi before you fall over it.

With a glimmer of light in the distance, and the sun still a few degrees below the horizon, the inevitable "Sun up", was once again on its way, to signal the end of the dark Antarctic winter and the start of another Antarctic summer. So what better way to celebrate, with a Hawaiian theme cocktail night. Although some were celebrating more than others, as Jules nursed his broken Fibula, (ankle), when he fell foul of bad wind and kiting play.

Jules's left foot swollen, moments after the incident. 9th August.

Dr. Richard and Dave (Met. Babe), patching Jules up, as good as new.

Job well done. Dr. Richard, Dave and patient, giving the plastering work, the thumbs up. Some might say a possible career change? Anyone need a plasterer?

Me and Dean raising a cheer to the "Pre Sun Up" celebrations, 9th August.

This was as good as it got on Friday 10th August 07, the first sun rise after winter, at 13.40. A small fraction of the suns disc looming menacingly on the horizon, before tiring and setting for another night at 14.30, an hour later. It was as if it was all too much of an effort, the sun didn't want to overdose us on its rays just yet, it didn't feel ready to blanket our landscape with a full on disc. But rest assured, with an average of 20 minutes extra each day, 24 hour daylight, wouldn't be too far away.

As the Halley flag came down for the start of the Sun's cycle, of setting below the horizon and staying there for our 105 day Sun deprived winter, on the 2nd May 07. It was once again time, for the tradition of the youngest member on base, (Jim aged 21yrs), to raise the flag in celebration, of the long awaited "Sun Up", (Friday 10th August).

The well rested flag pole, now submitted to another job of flag waving, and the flag once again being the onslaught of another batch of Antarctic weather.

To mark the occasion of Sun Up, i thought i'd try my hand at another BBQ, but this time, one of the coldest i think many of us will ever experience, at minus 44 Degs C.

The calmness of Sun Up was short lived. The clouds gathered and lingered the very next day, the winds changed and grew in pace and the drifting, blowing snow pummelled you like the grains of sand in a sand storm. Another blow and possibly the glimpse of a "White Out". The visibility was scarce, every other step your feet would disappear in the howling blowing snow engulfing them - this was the weather NOT to be caught out in, any disorientation could lead you in any opposite direction, away from the safety of base.

Me preparing to do battle with the elements, in 41.5 knot winds, at minus 25.2 Degs C and a windchill factor of minus 45.3 Degs. I'm not taking any chances! Do i have enough layers on?

Can you see me?

I'm only about 10 metres away from the Laws.

The Laws in a whiteout. It shows just how little you can see, when you venture yards from the base, considering you can still see Halley from Windy creek, 20 km away on a clear day.

August would prove to be quiet a busy month B'day wise, with the celebrations of Kirsty, myself and Alex. Although, not a bad thing by any means, it just means most of the Saturday's in August are related to parties chosen by the Birthday people.

The first of which was Kirsty's "Action Hero Party" on the 11th August.

Richard and Dean following Jules's accessory for the party.

Kirsty's Birthday saw the game "Cereal Killer" come into play. "How low can you go", in order to pick a cereal box up off the floor, that gets shorter and shorter, inch by inch, with both feet staying firmly on the ground and without any use of your hands, and nothing else touching the floor.

Is that knee touching Tom?

However, during the flow of the evening, it would seem "Harrison Ford" was getting too rowdy for "Lara Croft", although she proved to be able to take care of herself!

But just to make sure the Gladiator, "Aurelius Maximus", proved his worth, with the sharp point of his sword.

Kirsty celebrating her 23rd Birthday on 15th August 07, with a "Hello Kitty" cake made by the Doc. and another fantastic photo shop card courtesy of Dean.

As it was my Birthday the next day, which coincided with my day off, and considering it was my 30th, i thought, how else could i spend my landmark Birthday - by sleeping rough, outside, on the Antarctic ice shelf itself. So on the eve of my Birthday, with the weather closing in for another night of howling winds, and the thought of our warm pit rooms all too close for comfort, we prepared our "Bivvy Sacks" in the Laws corridor, along with warm refreshments of tea flasks and chocolate, and not forgetting the all important thermals!

Preparing our Bivvy bags, consisted of a foam sleeping mat, Therma rest mattress, sheepskin rug, fire proof outer bag, which your feather down sleeping bag fits into and a Bivvy bag, which is a Gortex bag with a zip at the top which all of the above slides into, not forgetting me - cosy?

Me modeling the all important thermal cat suit and Mad Bomber rabbit hat, with our prepared Bivvy bags.

The Bivvy contenders, Pete, Richard, Dave, Sune, Matt, Dean and myself, Ant.

A surprise bottle of Champers, appearing as a gift from Dave. Cheers! Although opening a glass bottle with large mitts on is almost impossible, as is bare hands in minus 35.3 Degs C, unless u want them sticking to the glass.

"Heads up. Cheers. Sorry Matt, hows the head?"

Welcome to our bedroom.

Preparing for the night ahead, just as the wind and snow picks up - Great.

There we were, 7 brave souls, burying down for a long, cold, noisy, sleepless night.

Goodnight, sleep well??

"Snug as a bug". Even with the snow building up around me, and the temperature dropping to minus 39.7 Degs C and the wind blowing at 16 knots.

Thursday, August 16th 2007, my 30th Birthday celebrations, at Halley Research Station, Brunt Ice Shelf, Antarctica. The melt tank cake curteousy of Richard and the card curteousy of Dean.

A German tradition, as instructed by our German UAV Scientist, (Unmanned Aerial Vehicle) is the sweeping of rubish outside the Town Hall, when you reach 30 and are still not married, and you continue sweepinf until a kiss from a virgin releases you. Since we havn't got a Town Hall here, Tom threw all manner of shredded paper in the corridor and made me sweep it up with a nail brush attached to a broom stick.

With the immenence of a pub crawl for the Saturday night of my Birthday, i thought it'd be quite fun to dig a real snow cave, in the Drewery snowdrifts and use it as one of the stops for the pub crawl. I managed to coler Dean the Comms Manager, (who rarely gets out much, due to work commitments) and on Friday afternoon we started the mamouth dig. It soon became apparent we should have started it weeks ago, but hey, heinseights a great thing. Knowing what a huge task we'd both taken on, and considering i was popping to and fro from the kitchen, (to cook lunch and diner), we thought we'd inlisted the help of Richard, another free sole for the day. With the three of us happily digging away, on and off from Friday afternoon till saturday early evening, and stopping only to go back to work or for food. We eventually managed to finish what we started, and keeping it a secret from the others, made the excitement all the more rewarding when they peered round the corner on the last pub stop, to see a candle lit cave you could walk around fully upright in, with no neck crouching, shelves for beers and a window for passers by and a centre pillar, featuring some dainty candle light but more importantly as an element of safety to the structure.

Dean, at the Drewery snowdrift, approximatly 12ft high. The site of the mamouth dig.

Me using the snow saw. "How much further".

Another hard day and night of digging, over.

The finished arcticle, well worth the efforts.

The pillar inside the cave.

Halley Pub Crawl, 18th August 2007

The venues, in order of safety first.

The Codis Dome, which houses our satelitte and our link to the rest of the world, and me sipping some hot gluhvein.

The first floor of the melt tank.

The shaft leading to the melt tank Silo.

Caslab - Simpson -

The "Pleasure" Haven, used to house the Blimp.

Its ok for some. Complimentary "Taxis" available for a select few, or those with a broken leg. Destination Piggott -

Drewery Ice Cave -

The architects, welcome you, to the "Drewry Ice Cave".

We even catered for Jules with easy "Disabled Access".

With the return of the light and good weather towards the end of the month, came the increase in workload for some. As the long awaited light provided the opportunity for Jim to level the Laws legs. Which requires a substancial amount of jacking up or down, depending on which way the level is required, 10 jacks equals 1mm.

Sune, the Field GA, was also kept particulary busy in August, with the hauling up of sledges from the conatiner line back to the Laws, in order to carry out routine maintence prior to our 2nd winter trip.

One of the major tasks for August, with the coming of the sun light, was the assembly of the weather haven, which houses the blimp. The Blimp is an airship style balloon equiped with weather instruments for recording, temperature, pressure, humidity, wind direction and wind speed. It's then filled with Helium, and raised to a height of approx. 400 metres up into the atmosphere. The Blimp also records additional data of ozone depletion at different levels within the atmosphere, which occurs when the sun hits newly formed sea ice.

The Met team and helpers assembling the weather haven.

The Blimp being raised.

It would appear the August light and good weather, give or take a few frigid days, would be the start of the Precious Bay recci's, and a chance for Tom and Neil to install some ozone experiemnts there. Precious Bay is a site where Polynya's occur. Polynya's are large areas of open water surrounded by sea ice that are found in the same region year after year, created by upwellings in ocean currents, making the sea more salty. It is also a sweet spot for "frost Flowers" to grow, a tiny microscopic chemical called Bromine being blown in from the sea onto the frozen ice, and over time ataching themselves to each other forming flower like formations. These "Frost Flowers", react like free radicals in the atmosphere in the new Spring light, which cannot happen without the catalyst of sun light. One of the instruments being used is a Spectrometer, which collects data on what series of reactive chemicals are causing possible ozone depletion. The experiment equipment will be powered by batteries, which in turn are being charged by both solar panels and wind power.

Sune guiding Tom on some last minute checks, before heading off to Precious Bay.

Tom and neil off to Precious Bay, to set up their experiments.

An example of some of the equipment involved, on a half unit sledge, that maybe taken into the field for survival.

The caboose in the background inwhich they will both stay in, amongst there experimental plot.

The end of August soon came around, along with Alex's 27th B'day, with a party theme associated with "The Rocky Horror Picture Show", taking place the weekend before and some very suspect wardrobe ideas.

Halley Samba Band. Marking the occasion of the Notting Hill Carnival, 27th Aug.

29th August, Alex with another of Richards designer and much sort after B'day cakes, marking his 27th year with a "Rocky Halley Picture Show", Here at Halley, Antarctica, 07.

The opportunity arose wright at the end of August for a recce. trip out to Windy Caboose approx. 20km away from base. A trip designed to flag a safe route down from the ice cliff onto the sea ice and also to dig out the Caboose, in readiness for the much anticipated look at the Emperor Penguin colony. Most of the empty drums along the route were buried, and those visable were as flush with the ice as man hole covers. One of many drum raising jobs, required to help map out, various places around Halley. The caboose is there as a shelter just incase bad weather hindered any return back to base, and is fully stocked with dryed food and a stove for survival in the field.

Inside the caboose, a welcome shelter in times of real need.

With 2 anchors hammered into the ice, and a Shunt attached to our harnesses which was clipped into the anchored rope, we each set off, one at a time down the ice cliff onto the sea ice. A Shunt is a device which requires manual pressure in the form of a lever, to release rope, thus making you able to travel both upwards or downwards along the rope. By the time all three of us had traversed onto the sea ice, we were already being greeted by inquisitive Emperors, that had travelled 1.5km away from the colony to perform, one of the most incredible and rare photgraphic sessions on earth. It sudenly dawned on me, staring into the dark eyes of these creatures, that this was the first living thing i'd seen for approximatly 5 months, other than my fellow base members. And i was looking into the eyes of a living creature strong and tough enough to survive and endure every hostile weather, that Antarctica had to offer, with no food, no shelter, just the pure natural instinct to keep huddled together, in order to survive. Here i was wrapped up in the best Antarctic clothing man had to offer, comfortable, just as long as i kept moving, certainly not if i just kept still.

The Emperor pwnguin is the tallest and heaviest of all living Penguin species. It is endemic to Antarctica, and is the only penguin species that breeds during the Antarctic winter, when the temperature can get as low as -40 degs C. Adult Emperors average 1.3 m in height and can weigh between 20 and 45 kg, making the Emperor penguin the 5th heaviest existing bird. Emperors start courtship in March or April, and are monogamus towards each other, in staying faithful to their mate during each breeding year. Dispite their efforts for the same partners the following year, most simply cannot find each other and so choose another mate. In May or June, the female penguin lays a single 450 gram egg, in which she transfers to the male, who incubates the egg in a pouch for approx 65 days consecutively without any food, surviving on fat reserves and spending the majority of the time sleeping to conserve energy. The awkward transfer of the egg, can mean many couples drop the egg in the process, when this happens, the chick inside is immediately lost as the egg cannot withstand the low temperatures on the ice shelf. After approx 2 months of feeding at sea the females make their way back to the colony, where the chick is again transfered back to the mother, before the males leave for a few weeks of feeding. Each trip becomes shorter than before, due to the melting sea ice in the warmer summer temperatures, gradually decreaseing the distance between the breeding colony and the open sea. Which is why the Emperors travel and breed so far inland, as any shorter distance travelled to breed would result in the sea ice melting, still with Emperor chicks on it, too young to take to the icy Antarctc waters. Eventually, all adolescent chicks and parents return to the sea and spend the rest of the summer feeding there, and at the end of the summer the whole cycle is repeated, for all those penguins of breeding age, while the younger ones stay at the sea edge.

Matt shunting down the ice cliff.

The inquisitive welcoming party.

Follow the frozen Penguin poo, with the colony in the far distance, a sure sign they have started taking the long ardeous journey to feed.

A lone Emperor crossing the pressure ridges from feeding in the sea, towards the rest of the colony, some 300 metres away - quite a short distance in comparison to some who may travel up to 90 km to their breeding colony.

Welcome to the Emperor Penguin colony at Windy Bay. A Emperor zoo, on ice.

Lunch with an Emperor, or 2!

Can you see me?

Emperor chick, probably no more than 3 weeks old.

Matt and Sune using the VHF radio with a whip antenna to contact base, both before and after going onto the sea ice. In the far right distance you can see sea smoke, a phenomena caused by the sea, which averages a temperature of about 0 Degs C, clashing against the -30 Degs C ice shelf. The freezing point of seawater is -2°C.

August statistics:

Max Temp. -13.4 degs C on 28th
Min Temp. -44.4 degs C on 10th
Max Gust 64.3 Knots
Total Sunshine Hours - 30.7 hours

Doc stabbing me and Antarctica's Winds & skies

2007-07-11T02:15:00.000-07:00

The start of July saw our young Doc. getting tired and restless of our well exercised safety record and lack of blood resulting injuries, and so conjured up this weeks Doc. School on blood types. In particular, measuring Haemoglobin (Red blood cells) in our bodies, using the Haemoglobinometer and cross matching our blood types using the blood grouping card. Which is useful in seeing who's a potential donor for who on base.

Richard, helping me use a Haemoglobin test, as part of Doc school.

Finding out my blood type using the blood grouping card.

So far this year, when i'm not cooking, i've been practicing my woodwork skills with several projects still underway. The only one i've finished is a picture frame made out of Ash wood, from the retired "Nansen" sledges, that BAS still use today, designed by the Norwegian Explorer Fridtjof Nansen (1861 - 1930), who made his first voyage to Greenland in 1882. The frame is made from the front skis of an old dog sledge, that was disassembled due to damages, spare parts and the removal of all the dogs from Halley.

The back of the dog sledge frame.

The lashings with sledge tightening, tautening dope on, which keeps the half lap wood cuts in place.

Brass clips i cut out and filed into the shape of Antarctica to hold the backing board in place.

Finished article, original and unique.

In 1991, an additional clause was included into the Antarctic Treaty.

"Introduction of non-native species, parasites and diseases, Dogs shall not be introduced onto land or ice shelves and dogs currently in those areas shall be removed by April 1st, 1994".

BAS dogs were shipped out of Antarctica on 22nd February 1994 under the Antarctic Treaty, where all non native species were prohibited to enter Antarctica - apart from humans. These dogs were from a breed of Eskimo huskies from Arctic Canada and Greenland, renowned for their sledge pulling abilities. With strong descendants from the wolf, the severe climate and isolation and a very dense fur allows them to survive in the most hostile of environments.

In 1994, acting on the new Antarctic Treaty legislation the last two teams of BAS huskies were given one last expedition, before being sent on the BAS Dash 7 aircraft on 22nd February, 1994, destination, quarantine in Port Stanley on the Falkland islands, Heathrow, Boston, where they were driven by truck to Hudson Bay, Canada. From here they drove the dogs to new homes in Inukjuak, a Inuit village in Arctic Canada. However, outside the sterile environment of Antarctica, some of the dogs succumbed to various infections, and with all breeding attempts failed, the 50 years of BAS generation huskies, saw the appearance of the Antarctic-born and bread dogs, which evolved over generations with Greenland, Canadian and British dogs, as being larger and wider chested, possibly due to the regular nourishment of seal meat, sadly died out.

With no events planned for July, apart from the visit from the "King", later on in the month. The quiet peace on base was shortly lived, interrupted by the constant whirling howls of what was going on outside. It finally came, the experience of an Antarctic storm. Pictures on base would sway, hanging corkscrews would swing, the water in the toilet bowls would slosh and in some instances you could sit down in the lounge and see yourself gently rocking without instigating the momentum. All in all, not too dissimilar to the gentle rocking motion of living inside an airborne plane, with the noise equivalent of sticking your head outside of a moving car window.

Me hanging onto the hand lines on the way to the melt tank in temperatures of minus 24 degrees and 41.5 knot winds, which relates to a strong gale on the Beau font scale.

I didn't think these pictures gave the ferocity of Antarctica's winds any justice, so, i decided to go out in the howling wind and film what it was like to dig the melt tank. The video has been edited to about 5 minutes, but try to imagine going through this for about half an hour - enjoy.

One of the many amazing things about Antarctica, is the changeable weather. For a day, a week or any number of days, natures wrath, could be inflicting all she's got on the stilted matchbox we all call base, and without warning she could give up the onslaught and portray a light show, as if you were seeing the gates of Heaven glowing.

The weekly melt tank banks being raised by Bulldozer, in a break from the July blows.

Day and night, a break in the weather reveals the illuminating skies we've all be missing out on.

Common practice out here is the ritual digging up of more or less everything and anything which has stood outside weathering the high 40 knot winds. Once the winds have passed, drifted and blowing snow creates alot of digging and exercise, but also the opportunity to venture outside and clear the stale base air from your lungs.

One of the victims, a lonesome skidoo buried several feet below the drifted snow, visible only by the stem of a black flag planted on most vehicles during the summer, signaling that something is buried here.

The impact of the ice formation around the skidoo, requires a slightly more aggressive approach, with Matt the mechanic, watching tentatively - any damages, he's the one who's got to repair them.

Battle won - man, reclaiming back from the ice.

Andy pulling Matt on the once buried skidoo. Notice how dark it is at 11am.

Hoisting the skidoos into the garage for servicing, with a glimmer of light on the horizon at 14.45.

Defrosting time!

Amazingly after defrosting and a service, all the skidoos will start up perfectly, without any faults whatsoever.

As a treat for a hard days digging, or more precisely, "i held onto them for as long as i could before they went off", the last of the apples were eaten up on the 17th July. Yum yum.

We had two Birthdays in July, Andy's and Mark's, although one was celebrated and advertised alot more than the other.

20th July 07

Andy receiving his "Primus stove" Birthday cake, in relation to what he made for his mid winter present, also bearing the "Elvis" quiff in readiness for Marks Elvis party the following night.

Happy Birthday mark, 21st July 07.

Z or Dead performing their Elvis tribute.

Mark pouring his "home brew".

July Statistics:

Max. Temp. -11.8 Degs C on 28th
Min. Temp. -46.0 Degs C on 24th
Max. Wind. 49.6 Knots, classified as a storm on 27th
Max. Gust 64.1 Knots on 27th

Mid Winter, June 21st 2007

2007-06-17T11:59:00.000-07:00

Well here we are. June has arrived out of nowhere. Mid winter is finally upon us. Another cycle of Antarctica's darkness will very slowly be drawing to an end, and the 3 months of our dark, ice encrusted home will once again, be bathed in the 24hr rays, of light and shadows on the sustrugi scared ice plateau.

Many jobs have to be taken care off throughout the year, all over the base. Me and Thomas offer a helping hand in defrosting a couple of skidoos in the garage prior to mid winter, which have sat outside in temperatures averaging minus 30 degrees C, entering the warmth of the garage only for maintenance and services.

There are a number of events to look forward to in our June timetable, talks about the Polarstern ship in the Arctic, Pete's prize quiz, scalextrix, murder mystery, table tennis, pool & photo competitions, film day. But the first, was Thomas's Feverzangenbowle. The tradition of drinking Gluhvein 2 weeks before Christmas in Germany, was initiated. As mid winter here is our equivalent of Christmas Day.

Christmas decorations coming out for the mid winter celebrations.

Next on the big agenda for June was Pete's 50th Birthday on the 9th June, he couldn't have timed it better, having it here on an Antarctic research station. With the tradition of the Doc. making the birthday cakes on base, all i had to do was cook Pete's favourite meal - hoping i'd have the ingredients, that is. Braised beef steak and a jacket potatoes. The party night continued with a fancy dress theme of "Explorers", which proved tricky when some of the guys and girls decided to rope up in true mountaineering style, but then consequently struggled to release rope, while under the influence of alcohol, for the frequent toilet pit stops.

Pete with Doc's cake and a frame made by me,Tamsin and James, with the picture donated by Thomas.

The "Explorers" Club.

Dave posing, still roped up, while other members of his party, make use of the toilets.

One thing i'd just like to mention is that i live, work and sleep in a freezer - literally, when temperatures average around minus 30 - 40 degrees below, it can take its toll on the windows and frame. This photo was taken on 10th June, and is of the inside of my pit room window.

The frost on the floor in the corridor is due to the external ice strengthened steel beams, running close to the interior floor.

It was like the last shopping day before Christmas, i spent part of Friday afternoon away from the kitchen and meticulously grafting away at my winter present, with much needed guidance given from Matt, down the garage. Making a few last minute adjustments and improvements, for one of the lucky winterers i pulled out the hat in February. And yes, in case your all wondering, my chefs jacket was changed, prior to any cooking.

With the Friday night Simpson office Christmas party underway, and outside catering provided by "moi", the festivities of mid winter commenced. Balloon games, pin the bow tie on the penguin, guess the photocopied body parts and eating chocolate with a knife and fork, whilst wearing some of your Antarctic accessories, were all worth the 300 metre trek from the Laws, and the biting -39 degree temperatures.

Trust me to get stuck into the chocolate game.

The following day saw me enjoying my time off work and the subsequent holidays to come. I can't remember the last time i had a good few consecutive days off. Saturday afternoon would be biathlon time, a 2mile ski in minus 29.1 degrees C, from the laws to the memorial and back, followed by the knocking off of 5 cans with 5 ice balls, with additional mini laps to the melt tank, as punishment for however many cans left standing. After an incredibly dodgy start, with skis coming undone and sticks flailing everywhere, i was in 4th place coming up to the memorial. My cross country skiing ability is more of a run with planks on my feet, rather than the graceful glide demonstrated by my competitors. A wrong turn by the can shoot out and a loose ski, saw me loose valuable positioning. I proceeded to knock 3 out of the 5 cans down, resulting in 2 mini laps between the melt tank and laws, and with no rules in the biathlon games, i flung the skis from my feet and ran the rest of the way. Every step was a gamble for my body to compensate in the dark dreary light, sometimes my feet would sink like quick sand in the soft ice, other times they'd gain grip like trainers on hard bitumen tarmac. My target was a fair way ahead, a Norwegian born mountaineer called Sune, born with skis on his feet. I made very little distance up, as he passed me on the loop, gliding like a swan landing on a lake, humbling me to a 2nd place spot.

The can shoot out, in readiness for the competitors.

Finished at last, 2nd place.

A table tennis tournament organised by Tamsin saw the appearance of John McEnroe, playing with as much enthusiasm as the out fit he was wearing.

Me showing Tamsin my silky skills.

Another tradition here on base is the watching of "The Thing", at mid winter. A 1982 horror by John Carpenter, about a thing / creature, that goes around killing people working on an Antarctic research station. So Sunday night, film night, we gathered in the lounge, watching this film that mimicked our lives at present - how unfortunate for the lonesome soul, who has to do the 12am and 3am Met observations outside on the ice.

Wednesday would bring another active session outside, this time a 2 mile marathon, part way around the perimeter. With an actual temperature outside of minus 37.5 degrees C, the crisp, sharp, freezing air hitting the back of your throat induces a few initial coughing spasms, a sign of your lungs disliking the temperature, in which they are being asked to work over time in. We could all feel the steady stream of energy and stamina, dwindle with every aching breath and heavy footed plod. My brain was telling my body to do things, which my body was struggling to implement. A few moments after the marathon, with all but one of the competitors back, a safety radio check was given out to the lone straggler, found casually walking the marathon course. A testament to those who competed, in probably the harshest mini marathon on Earth.

Me enjoying the starry skies after the grueling run.

A spot of well deserved lunch after the run, saw the majority of the Laws rooms, being turned into a crazy golf complex, all with their individual themes and challenges.

Dave's, "Hello Kitty" theme in the gym.

Thomas testing my Par 2 hole, i made in the kitchen.

So mid winters eve, saw the usual traditions you'd take part in on Christmas eve, with carol singing outside on the platform with hot mince pies, which didn't stay hot for long in the -36.5 degree air.

Mid winter greetings, came from all over the World. Some from their country Headquarters like Goa, India, President George Bush in Washington, and our very own Tony Blair. Others came from the research bases scattered around Antarctica, from the American, Amundsen Scott base at the South Pole, the French, Dumont D'urville station on the South coast, the Australian, base Casey on the east coast, the Indian, base on the North coast and the Japanese, base Syowa also on the North coast.

The "Big Day", Thursday 21st June 2007, Mid Winters day .

For most people on base today, and all this week, mid winter was about time off, relaxing and spending time on their winter present, joining in the base events or having quality time for themselves. However, us chefs, as always, never relax when others do. Our job is required at the most social of calendar dates, anywhere in the world, and down South is no exception. Another tradition for the chefs past, present and future is to provide an exquisite meal in the darkest month, of week long celebrations.

The program of events today, was all around me, well the food anyway, and an allocated slot in the mid winter celebrations, for some naked running around the laws, in a rather chilly, minus 35.5 degrees.

Me and Richard, making a clean getaway, running so fast, we got caught by the speed camera. Initial inquiries suggest we were seen fleeing at around 2pm.

So Champagne canapes in the bar at 4pm, with a team photo to mark the occasion, followed by a casual stroll into the dining room, for what would hopefully be an enjoyable meal. The raffling of the Laws flag, won by Brian the plumber, which i had the privilege of drawing, would be after the Amuse Bouche, (pre starter). The gnarled, weathered flag sails in the frozen Antarctic sky between sun up (August) and sun down (May), quite a historic prize, to take home.

Mid winter picture in the bar.

The mid winter menu. (click to enlarge menu)

What a busy bee.

Pete, laying up the table as my waiter for the evening.

Tamsin serving the canapes in the bar.

James and Jules tucking into the Champagne and canapes, although Jules looking like he's scoffed enough already.

Placing the Amuse Bouche, in readiness of the hoardes.

The fish course.

Mid way, in the assembly of the mains.

Some of the desserts served for the meal.

Round of applause for guess who? Me!

With the filter coffee slowly dripping through the machine, the retirement of the lounge chairs bekoned, with continued excitment of mid winter presents and the BBC World Service Broadcast. The HF (High Frequency) radio broadcast, is transmitted worldwide, which also features the other BAS Antarctic Stations, with the added bonuses of messages from much missed family, friends and loved ones. We had the opportunity of requesting a song for the broadcast a few weeks earlier, which was Echo Beach by Martha and the Muffins. A special message from Joanna Lumley during the broadcast, giving her best wishes to all of us here at Halley, was another enjoyable festive moment. The evening was far from over, with the guessing of who made what for whom, on the agenda for the rest of the evening. You recieve a present, guess who made it, then take another present from under the tree and give it to whoever, its named for.

Who left these, santa?

Andy McConnachie, the Genie Mech, receiving his gift, later found out made by Dave, one of the Met babes.

Mark, the Electrician, receiving his mystery present, with surprisingly, no idea who made it. A painted bucket with putty sealant in. How displeased does he look? And this took 4 months to make. Is this a joke?

Doc. receiving his welded metal scupture of himself, pulling a sledge, mounted on an original piece of Nansen sledge, courtesy of Matt the Mechanic.

Me receiving my present, which i guessed correctly, was made by Brian, the Plumber, . Two solid brass candle sticks, weighing in at 2 lb each. A fantastic gift which i'm well chuffed with, which Brian later told me, requires them back, to add a few little finishing touches to them.

Dean the Comms Manager, opening his present made by me, wrapped in the news paper headlines which he concocks each morning, when he can be bothered. The carved Z in the back of his head, was the result of him trying to shave his own hair.

A photo mosaic of the laws in a bent Alluminium frame.

Last but not least, just when we all thought it was all over, another small brown box appeared from under the tree with Marks name on it. His true present, a replica Primus stove made out of brass. Made by the one man we all knew had the ability to make such a gift - Andy McConnachie, who also owned up to the painted bucket and putty. A useful addition to Marks potential barge he wants to buy, the bucket catches the drips, and the putty fills any holes.

Mark, this time enjoying his real surprise gift.

A selection of all the mid winter presents.

Thomas's present he made for Pete, a replica of the Polarstern ship which they have both been on, moored up alongside the ice shelf.

A replica "Tesla" steam turbine, made for Matt by Jules the Electronic Engineer.

After a very long day, with everyone fed and watered and more than pleased with their presents, the suggestion of cigars and a tipple outside on the platform, was to conclude the night. The suggestion came from an unlikely source, but who am i to argue with "Doctors orders".

Concert night. Z or Dead, making their debu performance live on Friday 22nd June 07.

Mid winter week was almost over, the last weekend before going back to work, seemed as good a time as any for Thomas to perform another Feverzangenbowle. The perfect finish to round off the festivities of the week.

Even more so was the beautiful natural light glowing from the horizon, at 14.30 in the afternoon.

Mid winter was truly over. Which seemed a fitting time for me to aquire some free base labour, on the kitchen deep clean, or for me to get my own back, for the fact that i worked during mid winter.

Once the Halley winterers had gourged their stomachs on all manner of foods and beverages, after mid winter, Richard the Doc. announced the time was wright for some free scrapping, filling and drilling. So i thought i'd demonstrate my skills, to show him how its done.

"Just lay back and relax, i no what i'm doing"?

June Statistics:

Max Temp. -10.7 Degrees C on 8th
Min Temp. -47.5 Degrees C on 4th
Max Gust Speed: 56.1 knots

The Darkness Cometh may 07

2007-04-26T12:02:00.001-07:00

Sundown 2nd May 07.

It appears Halley is a base of traditions, with May being no exception. The traditional lowering of the well weathered and torn base flag by the oldest member of the base. This year, Base Commander Pete, at the ripe old age of 49. This takes place on the last day the sun breaches the horizon, until its return on sun up, around 9th August, leaving us winterers in about 3 months of darkness. Throughout these sunless months the phase of lingering light glowing on the horizon, slowly takes its toll and diminishes into a gradual darkness 24 hrs a day, until the cycle returns into a glimmer of light back on the horizon, slowly burning brighter each day towards sun up 9th August.

The sun up day is also traditionally celebrated by the flag being replaced and raised by the youngest member of the base, this year our Chippy, James aged 22.

As usual, any excuse for a celebration we all enjoyed another frozen BBQ, all huddling around the glowing ash like our neighbours sheltering themselves from the elements, The Emperors, over on the sea ice.

Saying goodbye to the sun on 2nd May 07, see you in approx. 105 days?

The soft pastel colours in the clouds and moon over the 16 Share antenna's, 33 minutes after the sun finally drifted over the horizon.

A blow hinders most outdoor work here at Halley, this one on 17th May. Although the melt tank still needs to be dug, regardless of the minus 17.2 degree temp. 30.5 knot winds and a windchill of approx. minus 43 degrees.

Now the winter is well underway, our local Doc. DR. Richard Corbett has been training us in technical skills for our time away in Antarctica, which will also benefit our day to day living back home in our "normal" lives. This involves anything from ABC, to Hypothermia, to Venflons, otherwise known as Intravenous Cannula's, which are used to give drugs or fluids directly into a vein.

Our Dr. Corbett, assisting Tamsin in putting in a Cannula inside Alex, doesn't look that happy about it? Poor guinea pigs at Halley!

One of the most amazing spectacles of Auroras Australis we've seen so far, 23rd May 07 00.26am, temperature minus 33.5 degrees.

The bright star at the bottom right of this picture is the planet Jupiter.

I'm not sure these pictures do the Aurora justice, so turn your volume on your computer to the max, and enjoy the "Spielberg" epic, directed by my fellow Halley mate, Jules.

Much of May has been frantically taken up with winter present production in readiness for June 21st - mid winters day, our equivalent of Christmas day. On the day the ship left, we all picked secret names out of a hat, for whom we were going to make a present for. Using the skills of our fellow technicians and materials on base, the possibilities are endless?

James, showing me how to use a router for my dog sledge picture frame, on the Laws platform, (personal project). Quite novel doing woodwork outside in temperatures of minus 36.4 degrees.

With the Halley VI build well underway, there is quite a few preparations which need to be under gone now in order for the build to complete in 3 years. Such preparations involve taking out the science equipment buried in the two shafts, which are both located 2 km West of Halley and transporting the equipment back to Cambridge.

The "Maggie" shaft, approx.25 metres below the ice over 7 levels, and contains sensitive radio receivers called a "Magnetometer" which uses a magnet to read and measure changes in the Earths magnetic field at Halley. Such as Auroras and radio noise in different galaxies.

The "Iris" shaft, approx. 10 metres below the ice, contains a rhiometer, which has 100 metres of aerials all buried below the ice, which are of a higher resolution and even more sensitive, than Maggie.

Inside the Maggie shaft.

From the bottom of the Maggie shaft, looking up.

Even though the sun has left the horizon far behind, its emitting colours glow on the Antarctic plain, silhouetting the Laws in an atmospheric pose. This picture was taken at 11.50am.

Picture taken at 12.40pm

The laws at 21.04, taken with the red glow of the moon on the bottom right and the bright star in the middle, far left is the star Sirius. Sirius is the brightest star in the sky, over 20 times brighter than our sun and more than twice as massive. If you were to be travelling at the speed of light, Sirius would take 8.47 years, to get to from Earth, in comparison to the Sun which would take only 8.5 minutes from Earth, but you would have to be travelling at light speed - 118,000 miles per second. Sirius appears to be one singular star with the naked eye, but is actually in orbit with a white dwarf companion star, Sirius B. White dwarf, meaning it has run out of fuel and collapsed at the end of its life, but will carry on burning for a considerable time to come. A teaspoon of Sirius B would weigh 2 tonnes, its surface is 300 times harder than diamonds, while its interior density is 3000 times that of diamonds. Sirius A is expected to exhaust its store of hydrogen at its core within a billion years, after which it will then settle down to become a white dwarf star.

May was the start of the voluntary biology research. A series of tests to see how our bodies biological clocks are affected by light. Such research, aids in helping other light deprived people in their jobs, all over the world, from us down south to those that go up in space. There are several tests involved in order to evaluate this research. Daily sleep diaries, urine samples, siting in front of a light box for a hour in the morning and 3 different pencil & paper tests, 1st being, copying the symbols related to the number, 2nd being a letter search along a line of letters and the 3rd, the most tricky, is exampled below.

(these do not relate to the alphabet, and are answered true or false)

A follows B - AB
B does not precede A - AB
B is preceded by A - AB
B is not followed by A - AB

The tests are conducted throughout our sunless days, in a series of 12 weeks of alternating experiments on "us live guinea pigs".

Siting in front of the light boxes, in the morning, no less than 40 cm away.

Just a small note, for all those who don't no not to go outside with wet hair, or worse still wash your hair outside in minus 40 degree temperatures. Its not recommended, unless you have a camera!

Alex, Tamsin, Kirsty and Neil after a hair washing session outside.

Even, back in the warmth of the base, Tamsin and Kirty's hair is still frozen hard.

May Statistics:

Max Temp. -4.6 Degrees C on 18th May
Min Temp. -45.6 Degrees C on 27th May
Max Gust 48 Knots

Auroras, Bbq's, Ice cave, Comrades, Frosted face and Boiling water at -44.1 and Tunnel Rescue Scenario.

2007-04-15T19:39:00.000-07:00

"Auroras are charged particles which are found in the earth's magnetic field. They collide with atoms in the Earth's upper atmosphere at altitudes above 80 km. These charged particles are energized, and as they collide with atoms of gases in the atmosphere, the atoms too become energized. Shortly afterwards, the atoms emit their gained energy as fluorescent light."

So now i know, what i'm hopefully, going to be looking at?

This was what i had scribbled my name down for, to be woken up at some unearthly hour of the night / morning. Aurora Australis. Southern lights. I scrambled my clothes on, hopped down the corridor simultaneously slipping on my socks, donned my Canada Goose jacket with Coyote fur trim, mukluks (boots), bear paws (fur gloves that fit just below the elbow) and of course my camera and tripod. I stepped out in to the bitter fresh air to stare aimlessly, hopeful at the spectacular "Light Fantastic" i'd been hearing so much about. The stars were sparkling like diamonds on a silk black scarf. But yet i saw no shimmering lights, just a clear band of sky with stretches of grey matter, stretching like paint on a canvas.

With such little light pollution, just from the buildings around us, i tilted my head, so my back was arched, and with the jewels of stars shimmering and shinning in my eyes, it was a glimpse of the vastness of space. Captivated, i watched, frozen to the spot (almost literally), till a particular something slowly moved steadily across the sky, emitting plane like lights. Of course, no commercial planes fly over Antarctica, and most of the other bases that planes serve, its too dangerous to fly over and land at, during winter. The object was quickly deciphered as being a satellite. A quite common siting down south, and sure enough, the one i saw moving across space was steadily passed by another in the opposite direction. The emitting lights were the satellites solar panels, glistening in the atmosphere. Posing the question "What else are we able to see?" Was followed by the answers " Jupiter is over there". After squinting and focusing in below double figure temperatures, my fascination with space was about to keep me to attention like a fisherman watching his float. The performance of the softest light phenomena, only equal to that of its opposite counterpart, Aurora Borealis in the northern latitudes. That same grey matter i saw moments before, was now transforming into the shimmering wonder i had hoped for. Dancing in the sky like soft, silk emerald green scarves, i was hypnotised. And in those brief scenes of phenomena it faded once again from striking emerald green into its original, exhausted grey matter, diminishing altogether in a blink of an eye.

Our first Aurora Australis, 2nd April 07.

With the Easter weekend upon us and most of the base enjoying some festive time off, and the well organised Easter egg hunt from Tamsin, i thought it was as good a time as any for a bbq. The weather too thought it was as good a time as any to drop for the first time this year to minus 30 degrees. So there we all were, huddled on the platform, round an old fuel drum cut in half with a roaring fire smouldering inside. Not only was it a first for me doing a bbq at minus 30, but also a first for using the bbq grill to sit peoples beers on to stop them freezing. Drinking out of a can isn't a wise idea, unless you want a layer of skin taken off at the same time, bottles and glasses, a much safer option.

Easter bbq, 6th April 07

My coke can in the corner of the bbq, keeping it from freezing.

I spent most of today going about my normal business, (well, as normal as you can get working on the Antarctic ice shelf), totally unaware of all the commotion of digging outside. Digging here is as normal as the wind blowing the leaves down the road or making a cup of coffee in the morning. The only exception here, was that it was voluntary. A few of the old winterers which were doing a second year, had located the position of a cave which was dug a few years earlier, by past Halley crew, in between the Laws and Piggott building. With an announcement over the radio late on Friday night, we were all welcomed into the new "Halley Ice Bar". A shuffle on your bum, then on your back, followed by a 1 metre high ladder ending in a slippery slope with smooth cut stairs into it, and we were in. An assault course, before you enter the bar - it might catch on? A real ice bar, 4 metres under the ice and barely a metre high.

Entrance to the, (well dug out) ice cave.

Dave, Alex and Tamsin in the ice cave.

Me settling in for the night in the ice bar.

Our first team photo on the Laws platform.

After a hard evenings ski for a hour or so, around the 4 km perimeter in minus 38.2 degrees, the features of a true Antarctic hero merges, back from the wilderness.

As the temperature begins to drop ever more rapidly, a lesson in science becomes a fun past time. A pan of boiling water, 1oo degrees C thrown out into the atmosphere where the temperature is below minus 44.1 degrees C, results in the water turning instantaneously into gas before it hits the ground.

25th April 07

"The nature of the beast", regarding living and working in Antarctica, is the many rescue scenarios, which have to be acted out, tested and refined, just in case anything did happen. The tunnel rescue scenario was no different. If anyone was injured or simply couldn't get out of any of the Halley tunnels unaided, is there a way we can help, get them out? Well, with a dummy placed "neatly" in the Laws tunnels a very successful rescue was accomplished, although some injuries may also occur from the rescue - being pushed and pulled through tight corners in a straight jacket style stretcher, being lashed to a winch pulley system and being hurled up a 30 metre shaft, i know if it were me, i'd rather crawl out their on my own than go through that.

Rescuers organising the winch at the top of the Laws tunnel shaft.

The unfortunate dummy, totally unaware the worst is yet to come.

The Doc. aiding the now, totally helpless dummy up the 30 metre tunnel shaft.

A successful tunnel rescue team, even for the dummy, although, perhaps only a dummy could survive it?

April Statistics:

This April 07, was the coldest average mean April ever, since Halley began in 1956.

Max. Temp. -10.0 deg on 30th
Min. Temp. -45.5 deg on 23rd
Mean Temp. -29.1 deg, record since data began
Max Gust. 37 knots
Total sunshine. 71.3 hours

Winter trip in The Hinge Zone, Thomas's Rave

2007-03-29T03:38:00.000-07:00

Thursday 22nd March 07

It was that pre - winter trip time of year. The chance to experience the "Real" Antarctica. The highest, coldest and windiest continent. Below zero temperatures, freezing fingers & toes, the winds, unforgiving & unpredictable weather, crevassed terrain, man food, life under canvas, my camping buddies. But also, lets not forget, the sheer beauty and excitement of exploring an uninhabited continent 1.4 times larger than America and 54 times bigger than the United Kingdom. Where famous explorers have risked, failed and given up their lives to the challenges of "Mother Antarctica". A place so desolate on earth, very few people have ever laid their footprints. A place, whose entire surface is constantly moving, twisting & grinding, so that those footprints which have already been laid, and those footprints of future generations will never be in the same place again. Swallowed up in crevasses or shunted upside down under the flowing ice shelf or wright now, floating on a huge Tabular iceberg, far out to sea. This is a place, probably most of the worlds entire population, will never get to see.

After a postponement of a couple of days due to bad weather - typical, and refresher demonstrations on various rope techniques for crevasse rescue. The weather cleared, the contrast was as far as the eye could see, perfect skidoo travelling weather. With the chores of lashing sledges, packing our "P" bags, warm clothes and the essential camping and fuel supplies, we were finally linked to our sledges via rope and skidoo, first gear all the way and "Sledge Dingle" was finally underway, heading South in "dingle" weather. Dingle meaning clear perfect conditions, which the heavens couldn't have made any better for us, the sun was shining with clear blue skies, the temperature was a reasonable minus 16.1 degrees C and the ice was as hard as a bitumen runway - perfect.

For the first part of our 2.5 hour journey we were unlinked to the skidoo and sledge in front, crevasse territory was marked by crossed black flags, like spiked skulls on sticks on a dessert island, warning, enter at your own life threatening risk - this is heavy crevasse territory.

"Desperation Gulch", with the "High Street" on the top.

There are two golden rules to linked skidooing, don't let the other skidoo drag you along, straining the front skidoo engine, which will make the back skidoo and sledge jolt and jerk around like an awkward child being pulled along in a sledge by a patient parent. Also, making it consume drastically more fuel. The other more obvious rule, don't run over the rope and dongla (black tubing running approx. 2 feet from the 30 metre rope links) get wrapped around the skidoo tracks and possibly flipping you over - not a good thing. So off we went, linked in pairs, skidoo, rope, sledge, rope, skidoo, rope, sledge.

After a further 1 hour of linked skidoo travel, we stopped for lunch at one of the few places in Antarctica where rocks and stones can be seen. A huge iceberg which was once part of the continent, that has slid down and flipped upside down some 18km onto the ice shelf. Revealing the underneath terrain of Antarctica, before the formation of ice arrived.

Me at Stony Berg.

Views from Stony Berg.

The vast flat openness, on top of Stony Berg, with our skidoos and sledges in the background.

A quick tracker bar or two later, a few slurps from my coffee flask and the all important photos taken, then we were off again. The decision to travel to uncharted, unnavigated sites for camp, took the chore of linked skidoo travel away. After various house sized hills were conquered in our linked skidoo formation, we were advised once again when going up a hill, the last skidoo speeds up and when coming down the last skidoo again eases off a touch, ( which can have your heart in your mouth when you see your sledge side by side, racing you in a match it should no way win).
The largest hill yet, was insight, and with my linked partner taking a wide birth to straighten up his sledge to hit the hill head on, i was committed too. His skidoo disappeared over the hill followed by his sledge, then, with no warning from anything, my rear fell heavy, the skidoo turned to the point of no return, on one ski and i jumped off, before watching my sledge rope come hurtling towards me, very nearly scraping my scalp like a mohawk indian. The result, an upturned sledge and skidoo. With Sune on the scene probing for crevasses before anyone could move, a quick assess of the situation rendered the sledge rolled upright and turned straight, which took all four of us, and again a heavy roll by all to wright en the skidoo from its windshield to its skis. A look under the bonnet to relieve the engine of loose snow and the inspection of the steering and skis revealed the only damage was a slightly cracked plastic rim to the right wing mirror - phew i got away with it. The situation wasn't over, due to me being linked to the skidoo and sledge over the hill and me just upon it, we needed to link one of the other skidoos to the skidoo rope already over the hill, to aid in the extra pull the hill would make. On Sunes command we all rev ed the engines and within minutes i was over the hill. All that was needed now was to relink the skidoo and sledge back to the others behind us.

Getting me over the hill, with the two skidoos linked in front, after my misdemeanor.

We finally arrived at our campsite, 62.72km or "as the crow flies", 39.75km away from Halley, after about 4.5 hours of travelling, on a GPS reading of S 75 degrees 52.662' W 025 degrees 54.116'. With at least 2 hours ahead of us setting up camp, there wasn't a moment to loose. The digging in of the tent, unloading the sledges, refueling the skidoos, covering the skidoos under canvas in case of a blow, sorting out the inside of the tent with man food, Tilley lamp, Primus stove and HF radio assembly, P bags laid out and finally the all important "Poo" tent and reasonably well dug hole, in which to harbour all the nasties. A wooden slab with a loo seat cut out covered in foam and two manfood boxes, to place it on, ensured a good aeration and drop from human natures bowel movements. After this it was an early night all round in the minus 23.1 degree camp, but not before the 9pm "sched" time, a check in with base to say all is well and weather updates. Fingers crossed for more "Dingle" weather.

The dot marking Brunt Ice Shelf / Halley V, is where i am in Antarctica. The Ronnie ice shelf (the inlet, on the map) is approx. the same size as Spain, and the Ross ice shelf is approx. the same size as France.

The Brunt Ice Shelf. A constantly shifting mass of ice, with varying degrees of movement, but averaging 1-2 metres a day, approx 500 metres in a year. The ice sheet overlaying the continent represents about 70% of all the worlds fresh water frozen as ice, and 90% of the worlds glacial ice. Approx. half of the surrounding ocean freezes in winter, more than doubling the size of the continent.

The size of Antarctica in relation to the rest of the world, Asia, North America, Africa, South America, Australia and Europe.

Views around sledge Dingle camp, with the never before seen or explored blue ice hills.

The palace that was mine and Sune's tent.

9am sched time. We could all see from peering out of our canvas hideaway that the weather was pleasant enough, but the contrast was poor. Enabling you to see very little in comparison from our arrival day. Our thoughts were supported by the radio conversation with base, of the days weather and cloud cover. We were going nowhere, an extra hour or two lie in, before the tingling cold was the que for the Primus and Tilley to be lit. Bags of sugar sized lumps of snow were collected for the mornings water supply. Tea, coffee and general hot water for your flask in case we did venture out, and also, the snow melts better with some water already in the pan.

Poor contrast around camp.

And so, this was how it was from waking up Friday morning to late afternoon on Sunday. Late mornings, plenty of tea and calorie induced "Man Food", "Biscuit Browns" and Biscuit fruit", piled high with peanut butter and jam or marmite spread with "real" Dutch tinned butter, became the staple diet for breakfast and lunch, with a quite pleasant vegetable and bean curry or chicken balti. Just add boiling water, stew for 8 minutes, then eat straight out of the bag. We often took it in turn to visit each others tents and have dinner, and entertain ourselves with card games. Bringing a whole new meaning to the social event of "inviting your friends over for tea". On occasions we would huddle outside like Emperor penguins, practicing rope techniques and anchors, just in case one of us was lucky (i mean unlucky) to fall down a crevasse, just to break the day up of tent life.

Me and Sune sharing tasty, man food snacks.

Sledge Dingle group photo, with the blue ice hills in the distance.

Sune, (field GA), opted for a daring move to pack, what we both thought was a good idea. A larger tent, more spacious living quarters for us both to share, ideal for unpacking and getting your kit ready. Not so good at keeping it warm. It was more of a palace, a kingdom within itself, you almost needed a map and compass to find things or more importantly, at Sune's concern, he may loose his tent buddy somewhere amongst the corners of the canvas - me.
It didn't seem to sit wright either, the valance skirt that you dig snow onto which helps keep the tent where you erected it in a blow, just about touched the floor, (which should really be at least a foot in width), aerated the tent from underneath and in places you'd rather keep warm. I'd like to explain further the importance of the valance. These tents are literally "TP" / "Wigwam"style tents, there is no flooring attached to them. The only flooring comes from a ground sheet you place inside the tent once its erected. They are also made out of Egyptian Ventile cotton, the most breathable cotton on the planet. So you can now see my displeasure of a poorly mounted valance that barely touched the floor?
Due to these aspects, we seldom invited our guests into our palace, but chose to crawl inside the cramp, neck and back aching, but very warm and cosy tent of our companions.

Our neighbours, Kirsty and Jules.

It was on one of our tea drinking afternoons on Sunday that the contrast would miraculously improve, as if the weather new our time was running out to explore. We donned our warm outdoor clothing, packed our rucksacks of all necessary life support items, flasks of steaming hot beverages, additional warm clothes, cameras, mars, and the mandatory ice anchors and axes. After roping up in pairs and checking each others knots and securing our crampons we were trudging towards the blue ice hills that had eluded us from our peering tents.

The elusive blue ice hills.

There was a crisp breeze dwelling in the air. The kind that took your body a moment to warm before entering your lungs. With brilliant blue sky and contrast like on our arrival, the blue hills were to be our stomping ground. The light covering of snow soon turned into hard blue ice, which would have to be at least 50 years old in order to change into blue ice.

Climbing up the blue ice.

The crunch of 24 inch daggers on the ice from our crampons (12 on each foot) seemed to complement their respecting roles within the surroundings, as we ascended the summit. Finding the best accessible route with the time we had in the afternoon, nearly evening light, took us for a brisk walk around the blue hills, until a suitable gap in the ice, glistened in the descending sun as it shone through the stream of clouds just above the horizon. We reached the peak wright on "Mother Natures" que, a brilliant, dazzling array of bursting beams of light twinkling and danceing on the horizon, lighting up every cavern, crevasse, gully and sustrugi around us. All of which, we'd been blinded to in the past few days, was now lit up with oranges, reds and yellows, like fairies lighting their homes in the ice, for the cold night ahead.

Conquering the elusive blue ice hills.

View from the top of the ridge, over looking our camp.

Working out the best route down. Guinea pig first.

This was a glimpse of what i'd come to see. The real beauty of Antarctica. Something so vast and white, yet so many shades of rainbow colours in the shimmering sun. We all sat mezmerised at the sunset. Folowed, quickly by the same chilling temperature of minus 19 degrees C, which had gained volume and crispness, since our stomp begun. This was the call, to make our way back to camp, and settle in for body warming man food.

Light writing with the cosy warmth of the tents glow behind.

The clear Antarctic skies offer many stars, planets and satelittes to gaze upon. We were lucky enough to have Jupiter , overlooking us, which can be seen in the middle of this picture.

An early start on our last day in the Antarctic wilderness, with the daunting thoughts of what got unpacked, to make camp, had to be repacked, to leave camp. With conditions suspect from our sched report, we really wanted to get going as soon as possible. Sure enough, the moment we started our journey back to base, the contrast slowly diminished, making you squint and blink at every turn of the rope and skidoo in front of you. This was the hardest i've concentrated for as long as i can remember, my life depended on it along with my fellow camping buddies. "Don't run over the rope, don't run over the rope, don't run over the rope, where is the rope?" Seriously staring at a white rope on a white background, whilst going at speed, in poor contrast is no easy feat. I think we done well only to turn one sledge over - damn that was mine.

Me geared up, halfway home.

You could see the base on the horizon some 30km, before it resembled anything, such as home. A familiar figure standing on the ice, just off the platform, made for a welcoming heading, like a lighthouse coaxing ships into a bay. It was Pete, our Base Commander, "All back, safe and well, have a good time? " After a quick cuppa and a chance to thaw our weathered limbs, the unpacking of personal gear and man food boxes from the sldeges and refueling the skidoos, in readiness for the next trip, our time in the Antarctic wilderness was over - for know anyway.

The last event to end March was the Well organised "Rave" for Thomas's B'day. With all the charicteristics of a Los Angeles night club, queus, doormen, press photographers and special guest DJs. It all ended in the conclusion that everyone on base has two left feet and most practice the familiar waddle of our nearest neighbours - The Emperors.

Doorman Jim checking for names on the list.

The usual peskey press after a celebrity shot of Kirsty.

Like any normal club, no entry for the pressman Dave!

Me and special guest DJ Tom, mixing the decks.

March Statistics:

Max Temp. -2.9 degrees C on 21st March
Min Temp. -31.9 degrees C on 29th March
Average Temp. -16.6 degrees
Max Gust. 64.4 knots

Tour of Halley ,29 knot winds & the Lunar Eclipse

2007-03-05T13:54:00.000-08:00

I've been at Halley for just over two months know, and seeing as its my day off (yes i do get days off) i thought it might be quite nice, for you to have a little insight as to where i eat, sleep, work and play - my world.

Probably, one of the most interesting places on base, are the tunnels, which link the Laws to the Simpson (300 metres) and also the Piggott tunnels, which are separate - and i'm yet to see myself, so as soon as i do, no doubt it Will feature in my blog.

Each day starts at 9am with exactly the same routine, those on the melt tank rota go off and dig the snow and ice for the whole base's water supply. It was on a routine dig that i got involved (on another of my days off) to take photos of the guys digging. I snapped a few snaps, picked up a pick axe, dug a few chunks, barely broke a sweat and then the suspicions of the pipe being blocked were quickly deciphered. There are special techniques that winterers pass on from generation to generation, regarding constant monitoring of the melt tank pipe for blockages. The pipe, 12 inches in diameter, runs approx 27 metres down under the ice to a chamber approx 2.5 metres high and 2 metres across, which is linked to the tunnels, creating a depth of nearly 30 metres in total. Whilst at the opening hatch of the melt tank, before, during and after any digging, the special blockage testing training is given. Grab a lump of hard ice roughly the size of a rugby ball and proceed to drop it down the pipe shaft. If it makes 2 bangs and a splosh, all is ok, if not, oh dear, the hassle of climbing down the individual hatches, each 2.5 metres high and starting from the bottom, unblocking all the way up, is a hassle you don't need, on top of your usual work load.

In all weathers, ice has to be dug on a daily basis, for all aspects of our water supply.

Snow inside the 1st hatch, after a week of snow blowing.

Welcome to Narnia.

This is just 1 of 7 chambers, with a averaging temperature of minus 9 degrees, inside.

It was my job as a Structural Engineering Surveyor to assist James the Chippy, in recording the tunnel temperatures.

The melt tank at the bottom of the chamber and the buckled re-enforced steel tunnel, being crushed by the ice.

Timbers being crippled and sandwiched by the sheer force of the ice above.

Entrance to the Flubbers. Huge bags of fuel each containing 2o,ooo litres Avtur, which is used to fuel the generators in the laws.

Monitoring the tunnels temperatures, is an important part of their upkeep. As past experience has shown from BAS's previous bases, being lost under crushing ice. This proves a delicate balance of temperature monitoring, as the tunnels temperature is around minus 8 degrees, but the melt tank is around 20 degrees. Too warm and the tunnels will collapse under the weight of shifting thawing ice, too cold and the dug ice for the melt tank, won't defrost.

The Laws, hand lines and buried vehicles, in 29 knot winds.

Learning new skills, this time as a quantity surveyor. Measuring the legs of the Laws, to see which legs are sinking deeper into the ice, which need raising or leveling and also a certain level has to be maintained so that snow drifts and wind scoops are minimised from the laws building. Thus preventing, to an extent, an unnatural ice feature developing from the buildings in Antarctica.

Me and James leveling the legs of the laws.

March was already proving to be an exciting month, with winter trips already under way, but also for the chance of seeing the Lunar Eclipse of the moon, which is when the sun's rays hit the Earth, causing a shadow (eclipse) over the moon. This would take place on the 3rd of March 07.

Towards the end of the Eclipse, a partially shadowed moon with visible valley craters and meteor scars, signalling the start of the wintering night skies.

Antarctica's science, 1st sunset and goodbye Ernest

2007-02-20T13:16:00.000-08:00

There are many reasons, to why i am down South, reasons i think many of you could answer yourself. However, if it weren't for the science here in Antarctica, and all the science boffins, the need for a chef here would be obsolete. I've taken part in a small percentage of the science, from air sampling, balloon flights to using the Dobson spectrophotometer, both of which, the information is passed on to world wide meteorlogical bodies whom then advise the government bodies for the study of the Earths weather. Antarctica's air is sampled and studied back in America, as a gauge of how clean the rest of the planet's breathably air is - or not as the case maybe in many smog filled cities.

Taking air samples requires a certain amount of breath holding approx 20 metres away from the apparatus, as so only Antarctica's finest air gets sampled, not the coffee driven breath of the Met team.

My balloon launch on Wed 7th Feb at 8am sharp, code A252009.
Apparently all balloon launches take place at the same time all over the world, so a clear, concise record of weather data is recorded. The balloon, filled with Helium, reached a maximum height of 23,509 metres before the increase in atmospheric pressure burst the balloon, which landed on the Brunt Ice Shelf, and recorded the coldest temperature during its flight as minus 53.4 degrees. These temperature changes recorded at different heights in the atmosphere, aid the Met Office in Exeter to predict our weather.

Checking for holes in the ozone layer, at the Simpson, using the Dobson.

Now the Antarctic summer is drawing to an end, temperatures are nearly always in double figures below and the sun is lingering less each day on the horizon, until finally on the 14th Feb at 1.08am (10.08pm uk time) the sun set for the first time for 2007, be it just for a moment, (1 hr 50 mins) but it went down clear of the horizon. A message to everyone - Winter will soon be upon us.

Going, going. 1.08am Antarctica time.

Gone! 02.58am Antarctica time.

With the first sunset behind us and the old winterers growing more and more restless on base, it would soon be time for us to be reunited back with Ernest. An exciting time for all, a chance for both new and old winterers to be left alone on base and cope with the "Real Antarctica".

The departure date of 18th Feb 07, was to be the final time, Ernest would knock on our icy shores for at least 9 months. A strange feeling of "time flying by and what the hell am i doing here", circulated my thoughts, along with stories of mid winter madness and coldness, impossible to imagine for the first time, but never forgotten afterwards. Thoughts i'd never really payed much attention to, until now. The point of no return, (or for a while anyway).

An escort was assembled of 3 Snowcats and various sledges and an emergency caboose. We were off, the sky was brilliantly blue and a temperature of -13, ensured the leaving winterers to warmer climbs had a chilling last breeze of Antarctica. The journey had started for some and ended for others, although, the time it takes to get down south, the old winterers have an epic journey in itself, to reach the real end. After some hours of being bumped and bashed around in the back of a Snowcat, Ernest was in sight, N9, the same location as where we left him. Luggage was stowed, old winterers aswell as new, and the last of any summer stowaways boarded for a well earned cuppa, before Alex, our posty for the winter (also a scientist and data manager), proceeded to stamp and sell last minute cards and stamps to the ships crew and any stragglers with last minute Halley merchandise. All before the call from Captain John harper, "deportation will take place at 5pm".

Last minute goodbyes and emails exchanged, the winterers disembarked before the mooring lines were released, and the last of the ships crew boarded. For the first time we were segregated, split in half, the choice was now taken away from where you wished to stand. Flares were dished out and on the signal of Ernest slowly drifting away from the ice shelf, flares were fired like fireworks in the bright blue sky.

The shackles are finally off the "Shackleton", Goodbye & farewell.

A very strange feeling. My only pathway to sarah and the outside world was finally disappearing through an eerie mist, which approached wright on cue.

Throughout my journey back to base, now home, (how strange) i contemplated having 17 other beings as company for the duration of the year. The sunset seemed quite ept, in ending our day. As if the sun was portraying our thoughts for one last glimmering ray of light before the long cold winter.

After a very long journey back from N9, time to fill a very empty Snowcat at Halley petrol station.

More importantly on my mind, was the tradition of our 1st wintering meal. A menu which i guessed, their taste buds would enjoy?

Monday 19th February 2007
!st wintering meal

Salmon, prawn & guacamole mousse with roasted red pepper dressing

Seared thyme beef fillet with root vegetable mash & a porcini whiskey cream

Wild mushroom, thyme & parsley rissotto

Baked chocolate blueberry tart

After dinner another tradition at Halley is pulling rooms out of a hat, as so everyone has their own room. Although, any old winterers doing a second consecutive year get the option to stay where they are, seeing as they've lived in that room for a year already. And finally, winter presents. Everyone pics a secret name out of a hat, of the winterer they have to make a present for, which is presented on 21st june, mid winters day. What can i do apart from bake?????

My new room, window view & real lambskin rug, cosy. GPS reading approx. S 75degrees 34.807 W 026degrees 41.874. Just to see how far we will have moved, by the time i come to leave.

February Statistics:

Min Temp: - 25.1 degrees on 24th
Max Gust: 40 knots
Total sunshine 125 hrs
15 Days of fog
21 Days of snow

Major Incident Plan & Flight over the Brunt Ice Shelf.

2007-02-07T08:41:00.000-08:00

WARNING! This edition of real life drama, contains scenes of a graphic nature, with contents of blood!

MIP, Major Incident Plan. This took alot of red tape to cut in order for me to publish. A plan was designed especially for this type of incident. An incident that involved several casualties and everyone on base, helping out Dr. R. Corbett, as best they could. Accidents happen everywhere and anywhere, they are no ones fault, which is why they are called accidents. But in Antarctica, with resources stretched and limited, extra care on every aspect of your day to day living and working has to be that little bit more conservative. With casualties scattered around the base and only one Doctor, it was up to the First Aiders, to assist where ever and however they could.

It would have been another great Saturday, 3rd Feb. to be precise. No one was to predict what was about to unfold......... until mid morning........squelch and screams on the radio...................."AAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHH HELP, HELP THERES BEEN AN ACCIDENT, BLOOD EVERYWHERE, ON ON ON THE SIMPSON". Simultaneously, another two calls came in, all from our work colleagues requiring medical assistance, all from different parts of the base.

"Attention all personnel, theres a major incident involving several casualties, please muster outside the Laws platform. All casualties to be transported to the Drewery"!!!!!!!!!!!!

kathy, laying in the Simpson with a nasty head injury, with Advanced First Aiders at hand.

On the scene, a semi conscious casualty with a broken leg.

The snowcat "ambulance", carrying a casualty with suspected back and neck fractures.

At the Drewery, the Advanced First Aiders (me) treat a open wrist fracture and give necessary oxygen to John, an unfortunate casualty.

Thank goodness for the medical training in Plymouth, skills i always hoped i'd never have to use, how wrong, was i.

NO ONE WAS HURT OR EVEN SCRATCHED, DURING THIS MAJOR INCIDENT PLAN! IT WAS A FICTITIOUS SERIES OF EVENTS, TO TEST THE PLAN ON AN ANTARCTIC BASE, NOT THE ACTORS OR FIRST AIDERS!

I was rudely awoken once again, as i am every morning by the annoying dolcit tones of my small portable, very throw able, square, pale yellow, ticking box, beside my bed, which pitches its tones tenfold just as i am dozing off into some well earned rest. It always seems to bounce back into life each morning, after every onslaught i dish out to it, occasionally missing a tick tock beat, but never in those crucial early morning hours.

The morning of 5th Feb started as usual, get showered (2minutes), get dressed, eat crunchy nut cornflakes, brush teeth, put eyes in (contacts) and then head off to work. The only difference on this crisp -9 degree morning, was the announcement, that we all had a flight in the Twin Otter sometime during that day. With the excitement building, i quickly scrambled the timetable of flights, saw i was departing in the morning and proceeded to make and bake something for "Smoko" (morning snack).

Our flight transfers were staggered, and soon it would be time for our "Happy Sledge" pick up. Our journey to Halley International Airport would take approx. 5 minutes.

The flight groups were split up into, 6 passengers, 1 being the co-pilot and the other the pilot, Ian Potten. All the usual flight precautions were in place, the comms by Dean Evens, fuel tech man Dave Kully and the fire skidoo by Doc. Richard Corbett.

Plane spotting at Halley International Airport.

You can just make out the contrast between the sky and the horizon. A landing destination not many pilots, would be experienced enough to land and take off in.

A quick fuel stop at the local fuel depot, (also at Halley International Airport), with the Polar 2 Dornier plane in the background, on a stop over from flying out some of their wintering team from the German station in Neumayer.

The Polar 2, Dornier.

The Twin Otter, which is owned by BAS.

Frozen sea ice and the shelf of Antarctica.

Halley, aerial view.

After a successful flight, a Champagne reception in the arrivals lounge at Halley International Airport.

Me, Manning the fire skidoo, just incase, for the other flights.

With no delays at Halley International Airport and a swift return journey by skidoo back to work, it wouldn't be too long before the evenings skidjuring and kiting would complete a typical days work (leisure) at Halley.

Dave the MetBabe (left) and Thomas the meteorlogical scientist and UAV pilot for the flight project, preparing for my skidjuring lesson, with me, a willing victim of their driving?

Easy!!!!!

Ooops, well not quite.

My next attempt at kiting, but this time with a snowboard attached to my feet.

Perfect finish, to a usual day at Halley.

The Garage move, Halley Derby and camping in the Halley Gardens 25th jan 07

2007-01-26T15:55:00.000-08:00

Life at Halley is slowly settling into a work and leisure routine. I tend to work from 8am through till about 9pm, with a few hours in the afternoon at my own leisure. There are always things going on, things being made, updated, transported, pulled and tested. With the new halley project developments underway, there is ample photo opportunity, of seeing large things pulling even larger things. The new sledge that Halley 6 will be made to sit upon, 43 tonnes, has been under going its fair share of treatment, being pulled by various tractors and dozers, assessing traction and pulling power. The 2 Challengers on base managed a combined pull of 155 tonnes, which is well within the boundary of weight from the new Halley 6 modules. The smallest module being 95 tonnes and the heavyest being 140 tonnes. Each module will be towed separately to its new site on the ice, until all 8 modules form a connection like a train.

The move of the garage, will follow shortly after the success of the sledge testing, which, so i'm told usually takes just 2 bulldozers, using their winches, (but in this instance every vehicle on base), will move closer to the Laws building, with the drewery move close to follow.

The trench through the ice, by the garage's skis.

Amongst the summer work, the mast erectors extend the "inverted V" radio mast, adding a section each time the ice takes too much of a hold. This year, its been extended to 21 metres.

Amongst the leisure activities, is the more serious affair of real hardcore men (and women) taking part in the Halley Derby. This is not for the feint hearted, sliding tackles and bare skin grating on frozen jagged shelf ice, spilt blood galore and plummeting temperatures of minus 1.5 degrees. The Laws verses The Drewery, Winterers verses Summerers. Nothing held back. The Derby of the year 2007.

I've still got it? James shying away from the ball, while Thomas - no chance matey!

However, due to a particulary heavy saturday night drinking, the drewery, being the weaker men, failed to gather any form of manly competition compared to the laws, and so it was, a select few changed sides to make up the numbers. Myself included, seeing as i was working their for that particular day. The Drewery's newly developed team stayed in a comfortable lead, striking in goals left, right and centre. With apple slices at half time the outsiders continued their onslaught, throughout the match, for a comfortable double figure win.

Got to keep on good terms with the Doc, you never know when you'll need him?

Typical woman, or typical meteorologist. It just so happened that in the middle of our pleasant sunday footie match, a Cirro - stratus was visable in the sky. This is the reflection of light due to ice particles in clouds, creating a halo effect.

A trip to "The Halley Gardens" on 25th jan 07, was next on the agenda for myself and the rest of the 8 new winterers. A chance to see and experience the splendid vistas, that we were living in from a completly different angle. The trip comprised of one full 24hr day per 4 winterers, plus 1 wintering GA, The Sune.

This was a chance to refresh ourselves on past training. Mastering the technique of singeing away any arm and facial hair instead of shaving. I mean, refining the art of Primus stove and Tilley lamp assembly and dismantle.

For the afternoon, a trip to the Gucci store. With every item of freezing, biting cold, brand new, protective clothing available, and all up for strong "price" negotiation with the store manager, The Sune, sorry Mr. Sune. "Please can i have a new Mad Bomber fur hat, yes i know i work in the kitchen, but i still NEED it?"

P bag preparation. Better here outside the shop, than a 7 day trek away.

After a spot of retail therapy, girls i know what you all mean know, and the gathering, and checking of our "P" bags (personal sleeping bag), consisting of a foam ground mat, real sheepskin rug, and a down sleeping bag suitable for -3o degrees, which sits inside a fire proof cotton sheet, a trip to wonky caboose was awaiting us. Wonky, not because it sits at a daft angle but because its 1 kilometre away. Hense "The Halley Gardens". We climbed aboard our skidoo and sledge and continued the exhilarating 3 minute ride to wonky.

Wonky Caboose.

Halley Gardens, with the Laws in the back ground. Inside a pyramid tent, with all you essentials in the middle, cooking equipment, food etc.

With Sune's instructions, our pyramid tent was dug out and erected, the stove and man food boxes placed inside and a quick lesson in the HF (high frequency) radio communication, with Halley base contacted successfully, all done before a cosy dinner awaited us - man food?

Halley, Halley, Halley this is field course training, how do you copy? Strong 5 over. (1 being noise and crackle, 5 being crystal clear)

Apparently these boxes are our best friends when we go on our winter trips. Hard to imagine, when most of the entire 28kg of dried contents is out of date by 7, 8, 9, 10 years. Although, the novelty value of looking at really old Cadbury's chocolate bar wrappers, brings back fond memories of past times. Any how, with the primus stove lit and ready, and fresh ice cut for the pan to make boiling water, my feast for the night was pasta carbonnara, or in cheffing terms, chippings of pasta with 1 or maybe 2 of the smallest, saltiest pieces of bacon you'll only ever swallow if you had the entire Antarctic ice shelf at your disposal for melting drinking water - damn i have. Probably the most ironic part about man food, is that you've got the most poorest of ingredients being put together with the worlds most untouched, pristine, water supply available, that a michelin restaurant would happily pay a ridiculous sum for.

One point about 24hr daylight in a pyramid tent, your eyes go from a blinding whiteness outside, to opening them in the morning to a luminescent orange inside. But you sleep fantastically upon a sheepskin rug and a down sleeping bag.

For my mate Mike "The Statatician"

January statistics:

Max Temp. 1.8 degrees C on 3rd
Min Temp. minus 14 degrees C 30th
Max Gust. 39.4 knots
Sunshine. 235.7 hrs
Total of 11 days of visibility below 1000 metres.

The new Year 2007, N9 relief 75* 13.59S, 025* 31.09W

2007-01-15T09:15:00.000-08:00

New Year upon the ship was to be an uplifting affair, with the emminent excitement of our final destination fast approaching. With orders from the captain for Shackleton's bell to be placed on the bridge, both the eldest and youngest sea farers were in charge of ringing in the New year. Handshakes were exchanged and new year songs sung. Welcome to the new year 2007.

On sunday 31st December 2006, we had finally arrived at 75degrees 13.59South, 025degrees 31.09West, N9, Brunt ice shelf.

At 16.30 Captain John Harper took Ernest out of ice breaking mode, ignited some revs on the side thrusters and proceeded to prep the ice edge in readyness for mooring. 18.38 saw all 4 of the mooring ropes being run out by skidoo onto the ice shelf, 2 a breast, 1 stern and 1 bow, and by19.23 drilling commenced. In order to keep Ernest at bay 4 immense holes were dug by hand and shovel, some 6ft deep, depending on how much loose snow lay on the surface before hard ice was struck. Once ice was hit the drills were put through their paces, to a further depth of 2metres through the ice. 20.20 was the goahead for the gangway and scramble net to be rigged up in readyness for our departure, and by 21.00 we were all fast. Time to unload the holds!

With the excitement brewing as to when we would all depart Ernest, our home for 5 weeks, a slight reminiscing thought entered my mind, as i waited, waited and waited for the nod. A lucky few would have the twin otter flight from N9 to Halley, a flight time of around 15mins, while others, myself included would indure a long ardeous journey by snowcat, travelling at 18kph for 60 miles.

Welcome to N9.

At 4pm new years day i had the call up, my time had come to disembark. I bid a brief farewell to the officers, crew and Ernest, packed my belongings in the hold and stepped out onto the gangway for my first steps onto the ice shelf that would finally lead me towards my new home. We set off in people carrier snowcats, 2 at a time, each carrying around 4 people, it wouldnt be until 9pm that evening, that we would eventually arrive. We stopped at whats known as a caboose, on the halfway mark towards Halley. A container with a bunkbed and small rations of food and a Primus - camping stove, for a cuppa. Precautionary measures for shelter incase of a storm.

Feint dots in the middle, are the flag lines we had to follow, to head towards Halley.

So far all i've seen is a flat, white crevasse filled landscape as far as the eye can see. Its so flat that the guys pointed Halley out to me, which looked visibley like a shoe box on stilts in the far horizon, when we were still about 15miles away. In England you'd struggle to see the end of your drive!

Halley, named after the astronomer Edmond Halley, is the fifth station to be built on the ice shelf, due to the other four stations slowly being eaten by the ever present blizzards and snowdrifts burying them. Latitude 75degrees 35S, 26degrees 41W. Nearest Antarctic neighbours is the Argentinian base, Belgrano, which is 548 miles from Halley and nestles 77 degrees 52.12S, 034 degrees 37.48W. And London, a mere 14255 miles away. This was the place where BAS scientists discovered the hole in the ozone layer in 1985, caused from CFC's and halons.

The temperature felt warm at 0.7 degrees C, and i felt a little warm and over dressed in my new Antarctic gear. I stood around dazed in my new surroundings, all dressed up, with no place to go!

On arrival, i had a brief tour inside the Laws Building, which is where the winterers stay, before a well earned cup of cocoa sent me crawling into my bed. An 8am start, saw us being whisked outside via a sledge and skidoo for a tour of our new surroundings. The other guys on the ship slowly got infiltrated into Halley, but first they needed to stay on the ship to help the crew with relief that end.

The Laws building, named after Dick laws, who is an ex BAS Director, and one of the last Directors who worked and wintered down south.

The laws building is the largest construction building, and is the sleeping and living quarters for the winterers. Below, the many toys (vehicles) to aid boredom (relief). The red buildings are the garage and behind that the Drewery, summer labourers sleeping and living accomodation, both are mounted on skis and towed each year to avoid burial. The Drewery building is a self sufficient living unit, named after David Drewery the BAS director, at the time halley V was being built.

Among the other laboratory buildings at Halley are The Simpson, that researches meteorlogy and cloud formations. Named after Sir George Clarke Simpson a meteorologist on Scott's expeditions between 1910-1913. It was here that BAS scientists discovered there was a hole in the Antarctic ozone layer in 1985, using a machine called the Dobson spectrophotometer, designed in the 1930's by professor GMB Dobson. The "Dobson" machine indicates and measures how much ozone there is in the air above a certain point on the Earth.

The Piggott, which studies space and radar readings, and is named after Professor Roy Piggott who is Head of Physical Sciences at BAS.

The CASLAB - Clean Air Sector Laboratory, which is geospace research, and is situated 2 km away. Geospace is the region of space where the sun's atmosphere interacts with the earth's magnetic field. The CASLAB monitors the effects of solar activity in the upper atmosphere.

It was here! The time had come! The long awaited RELIEF. January 2nd 2007

It was amazing the amount of cargo Ernest bought to Antarctica. There was everything you could possibly need to survive for a year somewhere cold. From birthday candles and pritstick glues, to dust pan and brushes, to scientific experiment equipment, to prime movers, to all manner of foods, to 1220 drums of fuel in 45 gallon drums. Plus there was quite alot of experimenting and building work to be carried out with the new Halley 6 project. Ernest for sure was certainly carrying his weight.
I was instructed to work on the cargo line, outside, delivering containers and boxes to the container line. I was soon strapping everything up from fuel drums, waste skips, skidoos and all the food boxes, to cranes, to and from the cargo line to the platform of the Laws building. On some days i'd be given the job of digging up empty fuel drum plots, each plot with 198 drums in it, which would be stacked laying down, but 3 deep and under the snow, so you could just make out the first layer. These would be transferred to a sledge ready for the long journey back to the ship. The process was endless when you consider what fuel drums were coming in (1220) and had to be layed in plots of 198 in the snow, and a similar amount to be dug out and returned. Endless even more so, when the ship would return in february with additional food and another 560 45 gallon fuel drums, all requiring a home in the snow. It took the entire base of 63 and ships crew of 23 all working 12hr shifts 24hrs a day to finish relief on sunday 7th January, which i believe to be ahead of schedule - i could have had an extra lie in then?

Cat Challengers pulling 3 German sledges, from the ship to Halley with 45 gallon fuel drums, making a journey time, one way of 2hrs 40mins at best. But easily beating the snowcats of a good 6hrs, with less sledges. The heaviest load moved in one rotation was 48 tonnes at 13kph, which also compares favourably against the snowcats of 10 tonnes at 8kph. Most of the loads averaged 30 tonnes for the Challenger and 20 tonnes for the john Deeres.

Real men at work. I aint just a chef. I'm a lugger!!

Fuel drums buried 3 deep, in plots of 198.

All needing digging out - great!

Wednesday 10th January 2007

Amongst the vast plateau of white everywhere, i saw what appeared to be huge icebergs, that have risen up from the horizon. I have recently been told they are mirages, Antarctica is a dessert, and where there are desserts you are sure to see mirages. On the opposite side to the mirages you can also see on some days a large grey, blue strip rising up from the horizon, this is the Antarctic continent itself.

I've settled in reasonably well with working life, i get up at 8am and have my 2 minute shower, get wet, turn water off, lather then rinse, and finish around 8.30pm with the occassional day off in the week. All water on base is dug up from the snow and ice and shovelled into a melt tank. A long labourious job which everyone gets involved with on a rota basis twice daily in summer and once a day in winter, thus making all of us realise how valuable water consumption is - the more you use the more you dig! Another chore for the rota, is "Gash". Which is basically domestic duties, washing up, cleaning toilets and showers, doing clothes washing etc. Although, as a chef, your always cleaning everyday, so we are luckily not on "Gash".

Beloved melt tank, and my new home - The Laws kitchen.

laws fridge, freezers and dry store areas containing a new shipment of fresh wintering produce from second call in february, 540kg of potatoes, 210 dozen of eggs, 410kg of onions, 122kg of apples, 78kg of oranges, and plenty more! All waiting to be counted.

Its all a bit hectic in the summer, trying to learn all aspects of my role here, imagine trying to stocktake a fridge and 2 freezers 10ft L x 7.5ft W x 8.5ft H, plus a shipping container larger than the average garage, plus an emergency shipping container. If thats not enough, there is also 2 dry stores, 19ft L x 7.9ft W x 8.5ft H, all stacked floor to ceiling. Everyone says it will quieten down for the winter so i'm told, when most normal humans will go home.

Drewery kitchen and one of the food containers, with emergency clothing on top, and a bit more food, just in case.

Its not all work, work, work, though, i've recently tried my hand at kiting with great success with plans to attach skis to my feet, propelling myself with wind power - natures kind.

Sunday 14th January, my first Antarctic BBQ at -3 degrees.

Me on my way to work, man hauling a sledge of food for the bbq.

Take note of the fire, sinking into the ice.

Antarctic Christmas 2006, 74* 15.4 S, 025* 52.2 W

2006-12-27T15:50:00.000-08:00

Wed. 20th dec. With a few days of Ernest in ice breaking mode playing crush with the sea ice, and the probability of many more days to come, i had time to reflect on the midnight sun. It was 12am, clear blue skies and the suns rays were burning brightly. Our course was 190 degrees due south with the sun slightly low ahead of us. We were all quite used to the noise and feeling of "Old Ernest", cracking away on the ice, the scenery moving slowly 1 or 2 knots forward in the portholes, then a similar distance gained going backwards. It wasn't until a quick stroll up to the bridge to have a nose, revealed something more sinister, we were stuck!! The ice had finally laid its icy grasp upon us. To the officers on the bridge, who never admit to being stuck, but always simply stopped, had a concerned expression about them. I don't know if they were concerned that Ernest was stuck or that they got into this situation on their watch, and the thought of telling the "old man" (captain) was far from a relishing prospect. But to my small nautical mind, we were stuck. The bridge had officers scurrying around, deliberating over tactical moves, all while we weren't going forwards and not going backwards - stuck. A huge chuckle rose inside me, stuck in the Antarctic, with all our technology, satelite imagery and boffins, mother nature still out manuvered us. I thought better of out staying my welcome, and so wandered outside to see the enveloping ice aroung Ernest's hull, a quick scout around the cool breezy scenery deemed, the reward of a cuppa.

"Whoops, did i push the wrong ice breaking mode button"?

It was late, early hours, and i nipped outside just before bed, as i always do, a kind of goodnight world routine, when, there they were. The two officers and the crane driver, swinging the 50 tonne crane from side to side, to try and get a rocking momentom. Port to starboard, starboard to port, over and over again, there they were up to the early hours lifting the empty 2 tonne cargo containers rocking Ernest until the ice retreated.

It would be Christmas eve before the decision was made, to sit back and wait. Fresh water was required and we can't make fresh water in ice as it blockes the pipes, and since this was our new priority, we headed out towards some open water within the ice, to fill our tanks. With this in mind what a perfect location and time to have hot mince pies and warm mulled wine with a few chorus's of carols on the fo'c's'le.

Christmas morning 74 degrees 15.4 S, 025 degrees 52.2 W, location - Stancomb - Wills ice stream. Air temp. a cool -5.8 degrees, sea temp. quite a warm -1.9 degrees.

Merry Christmas everyone.

Today was filled with excitement. It was Christmas, Halley was nowhere within our grasp and so a day filled with relaxation and fun was ahead of us. What a place to spend Christmas, the captain found a perfect spot among the ice pack and in front, a magnificent iceberg. After all we were all supposed to be working on relief! If today wasn't exciting enough, a flyby was arranged with a twin otter plane, from Halley, flying close by the ship. With a radio in hand we waited on the monkey island, which direction would the plane appear? The excitement was that of a real plane spotter. When over the radio, news of having Ernest in their sights bought waves of more camera happy tourists back on the monkey island. A kodak opportunity indeed.

An aerial view of Ernest by the twin otter from Halley.

It was Christmas day, and the 1st Christmas day i have ever worked, be it for a couple of hours, it was still work, only just. There was still excitement to be had, a rare opportunity to go ashore onto the iceflow. We would find a spot where the sea ice had frozen then thawed and moved then refrozen again. We were actually going to touch down on a ice flow. I snapped away with my camera as the FRC was unloaded into the sea and the two GA's were taken ashore to check the ice potential, making a boundary not to cross. I gathered my hat, gloves, thick boiler suit, and my boots that looked perfectly normal to someone walking on the moon, apart from the colour, and my camera, donned my life saving suit, crawled down the ladder from the ship onto the FRC, which is like a speed boat, and went to shore. What an experience, the ground was solid in places and in others you could be upto your knees. It was a short step on the ice before we quickly had to evacuate as drift ice was enclosing our escape. But seeing as it was Christmas and our 2nd mate officer on board, Chris, was all up for adventure, and with permission from the "old man",we headed out around the ship in the FRC, wildlife spotting and getting different angles of Ernest in the water. An amazing experience, being on eye level with the sea ice, icebergs and being dwarfed by the ship. After a while on our excursion, a radio conversation with the captain revealed a single Emperor penguin on some drifting ice, standing solitary with a belly full of fish and waddling tracks behind it, made for a great photo.

Touch down, tentative moments, would the icefloe hold? Toddy and Suna our GA's are dispensible and are the 1st to set foot and test the ice.

You can just make out the missing red paint above the water line, having being chipped, scrapped and ground away by the ice.

The Antarctic ice shelf behind the penguin.

Boxing day bought much the same coordinates 74 degrees 11.112'S, 025 degrees 52.997'W, air temp. -5.6, sea temp. -1.7. We were all know enjoying the holiday, cruise mode that had engulfed the ship. Another day ashore ahead of us, except this time we would be on fast ice. The ship would slowly nudge upto the ice shelf, which is an expanse of ice leading towards the shelf cliffs of Antarctica, from side on and hold the fast ice in place. A certain amount of nudging was required to knock any loose ice off, so the ship would be able to hold the fast ice in place. The ice would crack, break off, until solid ice was struck and be held in place by the shelf on one side and Ernest's force on the other. All perfectly safe? This time we would be hoisted aboard by the War Geordie and set free like dogs being let loose in the fields. It was great, a few kicks playing football, some handstands and pics, made for a very memorable experience. Another great festive treat, thanks to the "old man".

The festivities were far from being over, as on wednesday 27th dec, was the ships Christmas dinner. Me and the 3 other chefs had all been working towards this meal for the past couple of days and know it was time to show the ships crew our worth. With a choice of four courses from smoked trout mousse, beef fillet with red wine berry sauce, lime and ginger duck, monkfish, roast turkey, veal and gammon to Christmas pudding and 'Shackleton' ice flakers. Everything was plated apart from the vegetables and with senior BAS members as the waiters, an exceptional time was had by all. To top it off, a little photo competition was held on the ship and my photo was nominated best of wildlife.

Fiday 29th dec. As time went by, immobile in the ice, with no creeks or channels inwhich to venture forward towards our destination. The "Halley cruise ship", was once again generous in its off loading of cargo onto the ice. A morning of life boat drills of both the port and starboard life boats were successfully hoisted into the water with me, 3rd mate Ralf, and a two AB's (Able Bodied) seaman, Ron and Wavey Davey on board. A chance for me to earn my sailing skills, i competently managed to complete many circles in the small pond inwhich we were stationed. Carefully avoiding any ice, with the not so tough, non icebreaking hull of the life boat.

Further excitement was to be had with the afternoon on the fast ice, by practicing on a skidoo and life saving rope work, which will become all the more important, when we demonstrate our newly learnt skills on the edge of a crevase.

Our journey towards Halley has, at times felt like "Big Brother" is watching us, tracking our every move. Except big brother appears, in many different forms down south.

Soon, very soon. The end is neigh for our Halley cruise. Relief is on its way, except so is new year!